葉卡琳特堡 Ekaterinburg
原本只是路過，結果這個城市卻讓我印象意外深刻，除了這裡英文標示清楚、交通便利、擁有景色宜人的河岸散步道之外，還有兩個讓我覺得很有意思的地方：
1. 1918年最後一任沙皇一家七口在這個城市被無辜殺害，處決現場現在矗立著濺血教堂（Church of the Spilled Blood），遺體被棄置處則成為有七座木造教堂的Ganina Yama園區，兩個地方都成為東正教徒朝聖的地方。有趣的是，後來沙皇一家七口都被東正教封為聖人，因此在紀念品店裡可以看到「全家福」的聖像畫，全家大小像一般家庭拍照那樣坐在一起，但每個頭上都多了一個光圈。
2. 葉爾欽博物館。促成蘇聯解體的俄羅斯聯邦第一任總統葉爾欽在似乎在俄羅斯人心目中風評不太好（相較於做了這麼多年，支持率還是絲毫未減的普亭），不過他的家鄉葉卡琳特堡還是為他建立了一座博物館。博物館本身建築就很引人注目，不過讓我更覺得震撼的是它表達出的強烈反思意識。展場開頭就毫不留情的批評，由於俄羅斯走上共產主義的道路，和人類社會的發展趨勢脫節了70年之久；但最後也沒有把葉爾欽英雄化，甚至把他晚年支持率掉到只有5%、以及背後的原因都寫出來（所以大家不要再嘲笑9.2%了啦，人家比上不足比下有餘呀XD）。這種誠實面對功過、不隨便神化個人並且讓參觀者自己去思考的設計我很喜歡，這和我拜訪的前一個國家正好形成強烈對比。
I thought this is just a random stop on my trip, but was later impressed by it. In addition to helpful English signs, decent transit system and scenic river walk, I found two interesting places in the city.
1. The last Year along with his family were executed here in 1918. A landmark cathedral "Church of the Spilled Blood" was later erected on the execution site, and now at the disposal site stand 7 wooden chapels, to memorize the Tsar, the queen and 5 children. What I found interesting was, since the entire family was later declared saints by Russian Orthodox Church, now at the souvenir shop you can find the painting of a "saints family", which is like a typical family photo but there is a ring around everyone's face.
2. Yeltsin Museum. The first president of Russia Federation and the person who pushed the button of the Soviet Union dissolution, Yeltsin received fairly negative criticism (compared to Vladimir Putin, whose support hasn't dropped since he came into power in 2000), but still his home city founded a museum for him. The building itself was eye-catching, but what amazed me was the reflective voice it conveys. At the beginning of the exhibit, the Soviet Russia was criticized that "it led the country astray for 7 decades"; at the end, Yeltsin was not deified either. His 5% support rate and its historic context were honestly presented. I really like this experience, as it leaves a visitor not a firm conclusion, but a room to think more. This is a huge contrast to my experience in the previous country.
喀山 Kazan
這是一個我原本就有所期待、但後來發現期待以外的驚喜的城市。
大家都知道中亞地區有五個斯坦國，他們的下面還有兩個斯坦（阿富汗、巴基斯坦），不過很少人知道其實俄羅斯境內也有個斯坦國：韃靼斯坦（Tartarstan），是由韃靼突厥人（Tartar Turks）人為主體的俄羅斯聯邦境內的自治共和國，首都就是喀山，他們獨特的文化傳統可以追溯到16世紀的喀山汗國（蒙古四大汗國中的欽察汗國瓦解後的產物）。因此在這裡既可以見到東正教堂，也可以見到規模與氣勢毫不遜色的清真寺，兩群人兩種信仰在這個城市裡並存著。我當初決定要來喀山，為的就是要來體驗這種獨特的文化氛圍。
但這個城市還給了我更多的驚喜。喀山的文化很特別，但它不光靠自己的文化獨特性存活。近來喀山每兩年就主辦一次國際賽事，除了這次有參與主辦2018世界盃之外，2013年的世大運就是喀山主辦的，因此整個城市的基礎設施非常完整，俄英雙語的標示與地圖到處可見，辨識度極高的旅遊資訊中心裡有英文流利的服務人員，更不用說這裡大概永遠不會有「蚊子館」的問題。喀山也是歷史悠久的大學城，據說最近還成立新學校培養資訊科技人才。誰說一個文化古城就一定要把歷史遺跡當唯一賣點？喀山曾經膨風自己是俄羅斯第三首都，它的人口距離全國第三還很遙遠，但它的企圖心和行動力確實有著緊追莫斯科和聖彼得堡的氣勢。
Before arriving, I already had some expectation for this city, but it proved itself beyond my expectation.
Everyone knows there are 5 -stan's in Central Asia, and two more in their south (Afghanistan and Pakistan), but very few know there is one more -stan in Russia: Tartarstan Republic, an autonomous republic made of primarily the Tartar Turks, whose capital is exactly Kazan. It's cultural root can be traced up to the Kazan Khanate, one product after the dissolution of the Golden Horde Khanate. Therefore both Orthodox cathedrals and mosques can be seen in this city. Two people and two religions live harmoniously here. This is why I wanted to come here originally.
However, there are more surprises. Kazan doesn't live on its unique cultural root. Instead, it develops as a sports city and hosts an international game almost every other year recently. It is well-equipped with modern facilities, bilingual signs and English-speaking staff at visitor information centers. And I guess they never have to worry about what to do with arenas and fields after a game, as they are always hosting the next. It has also been a well-known college town, and is currently focusing on developing IT professionals. It never limits itself to its cultural heritages. Kazan had marketed itself as "the third capital of Russia". It's far from the third in terms of its population, but its ambition and competitiveness are indeed close to the two largest cities.
