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屯馬線全線開通之後，我一整天往九龍城鑽。 記得讀大專嘅時候，同學係潮州人，佢媽媽對我哋好好，會帶我哋去九龍城食潮州菜，難得今日仍然喺度，就係樂口福嘞。
簡簡單單叫咗幾樣潮州菜，先嚟個蝦棗蟹棗，又叫咗個椒鹽金蠔，仲以爲係流浮山嗰啲金蠔，點知原來係蠔仔粥嗰啲蠔仔，再喺面頭加一層粉漿嚟炸，有啲失望。好彩蠔仔粥就相當唔錯，白果芋泥直情一流添。
不過我今日嚟食潮州菜嘅主要目的，係潮州翅，唔好鬧我，我真係已經好耐好耐好耐好耐冇食翅啦，但係我真係好鍾意好鍾意好鍾意食潮州翅嘅，間中俾我食一次頂下癮啦！
埋單都唔平㗎，但係懷舊氣氛真係好好。除咗個椒鹽金蠔之外，其他都美味。
不過喺行返去地鐵站途中，覺得個頭有啲wing wing地，應該係味精落得太多啦！唔怕，屋企有解藥，飲罐可樂就冇事。
#何嘉麗callmegaga #何嘉麗 #為食路上
#出街玩 #九龍城 #潮州菜 #潮州翅
#樂口福 #白果芋泥 #味精 #解藥 #可口可樂
#食況轉播 #JLStudio的年菜
在 JL Studio 提前過年，嚐到了新加坡華人春節必吃的 #撈起。
「小時候我們都撈得亂七八糟啊！」林恬耀（Jimmy）主廚笑得甜蜜。撈起，又稱七彩魚生、撈生，是新加坡與馬來西亞華人農曆新年的賀歲食物，香港人也吃，不過星馬一帶最普遍。基本就是一道涼拌沙拉，由生魚片、紅蘿蔔絲、白蘿蔔絲、青木瓜絲等等海鮮與蔬菜所構成，撒上堅果碎、脆餅、五香粉，淋上酸甜醬汁，便由眾人用長筷撈啊撈，把彩帶一般的食材拋向空中，一邊講吉祥話，一邊盼望風生水起。
JL Studio的撈起，不含亂扔胡搞，吉利寓意仍不可少。我們眼前出現小花圃般的沙拉，Jimmy主廚端了三個小碗過來，為我們澆淋香油與檸檬汁，「祝你們財源滾滾！」；揮撒花生碎、白胡椒粉、五香粉，「這是遍地黃金！」；裝飾上炸魚皮，「祝你們年年有餘！」；海膽則被他當成了元寶，欸，還真有幾分像。吉祥話也成了調味的一部分！
出自Jimmy之手，這撈起當然細緻。重要的魚生，包含白魽、扇貝與牡丹蝦，滑嫩甜潤；鋪墊的蔬菜，蘆筍、櫻桃蘿蔔、紅蘿蔔、芝麻葉、紅酸模葉等等，質感殊異；香油與檸檬汁，花生、白胡椒、五香粉，都是撈起的經典元素，本即酸甜香口，Jimmy主廚另外添上以魚露和班蘭葉調味的蛋白霜，作為帶稠度、有份量的醬汁，把魚生和蔬菜更緊密結合在一起。酥脆的魚皮、甘美的海膽錯落其間，酸酸甜甜綻放開來，的確，就如春天到來一樣明媚。
#新加坡飲食更細緻的拆解
另一道讓我以為在吃年夜飯的大菜，是Jimmy主廚發揮玩心，向新加坡小販文化致敬的一系列料理。
「Welcome to my hawker center!」Jimmy主廚小時候可是在熟食中心長大的呢。以帝王蟹作為主食材，一隻蟹利用到盡，他在蟹殼裡填入薑黃飯，鋪上大塊大塊的蟹腳肉，與油封蛋黃和「辣椒螃蟹」醬；帝王蟹熬的高湯，則與蒸蛋、百合根、豬油粕和拆下來的蟹肉，成了變奏的「蝦麵」；零碎的蟹肉還能變成「黑胡椒蟹」，和黑胡椒醬汁凍、檸檬膠一起夾進脆餅裡；彎成直角的蟹腳，竟變身為新加坡人熱愛的「BBQ雞翅」！Jimmy主廚真的烤了大量的雞翅，再把烤雞翅煮成濃縮醬汁，刷在蟹腳上，鹹甜鹹甜，還真有炭香與肉味。
標榜現代新加坡料理的JL Studio開業滿四年了，去年一舉摘下米其林二星，從一開始的不被理解，到現在的自信昂揚，接下來的菜色走向會是如何？從這一餐可以感知到，Jimmy主廚把新加坡飲食拆解得更細了，也比較敢於引用台灣人較陌生的菜色，且傾向從單一食材延伸，為東南亞風味賦予新意。
譬如一道番茄料理，其實是南印度的番茄蔬菜湯與扁豆餅（Rasam Vada）的變奏，番茄蔬菜湯成為濃稠的醬汁，辛香馥郁，與咖哩葉油、炸咖哩葉一起襯托熟透的蕃茄與奶滑的「慢慢弄」絲綢乳酪，蘸著有如「鹹鹹圈」的炸扁豆餅吃，香氣與酸味打開食欲，一嚐就醒。
譬如一道肉骨茶，卻沒有肉，鮮味與厚實感來自各種菇，用牛肝菌、香菇等等菇類做高湯，同樣加入肉骨茶的配方（白胡椒、大蒜、中藥材），那刺辣溫辛的滋味太像了，卻比原版更素淨。湯料當然沒有排骨，茭白筍、波特菇、香菇層層交疊，上方搭載鴨肝與鮑魚片，賦予些許華麗感，鴨肝也增添油脂。
譬如一道羊肉咖哩，沿用紅咖哩的作法，主食材其實是南瓜，煎南瓜、南瓜泥、醃南瓜、南瓜麵包，展現南瓜的甜軟或爽脆，煎南瓜表面一層香脆，來自新加坡名菜「麥片蝦」的麥片，就是解構再解構。羊肉呢？化為香料鼎盛的羊絞肉咖哩「辣椒羊」（chili lamb），墊在煎南瓜底下，成了醬汁；也化為烤羊排，滿足客人看見肉的期望，配菜是酸亮的醃黃瓜，以及印度咖哩餃（samosa）的內餡，甜豆仁、紫洋蔥、馬鈴薯拌上了薄荷香菜醬，和羊排搭極了。
#精彩的甜點創作
甜點一如往常精彩，從前甜點、Jimmy主廚特製的蛋白霜咖椰吐司（不是亞坤，是「耀坤」！），主甜點、潮州白果芋泥的重新詮釋，直到最後的petit four，都很出色。
傳統上，潮州白果芋泥是將蒸熟的芋頭擣碎，與白糖、豬油一起炒成綿滑的芋泥，再裝飾上白果而成，是一道潮州名菜；新加坡版本的芋泥也會加入班蘭葉或椰奶。甜點主廚韓慧婷（Una）擷取以上元素，加進自己的想法：用清酒煮芋頭和紫地瓜，一起打成泥，夾進蜜漬白果和蛋白霜餅，底層是西谷米娘惹糕，上層是椰奶凍，整體有如新型態的千層娘惹糕，佐一球霧峰清酒粕做的冰沙，以及椰奶雪。風味太和諧了，芋頭、米、椰子相親相愛，發酵的米香優雅，方方面面都有思慮，卻不過度複雜，嚐來討喜。
Petit four很棒！向來喜歡Una主廚的巧思，除了會爆漿的白巧克力Bandung（玫瑰奶水飲），飄散金桔香氣的Rojak馬卡龍（手繪圖好美！）、慶祝摘星的柚子與覆盆子小塔、以米粉餅皮、花生卡士達、玉米脆餅組成的新加坡麵煎糕（Apam Balik）、以cream cheese和帕瑪森起司增添鹹味的香蘭葉蛋糕捲，展現多元的酸甜鹹鮮，最後一飲伯爵茶、柑橘、香茅、花椒的清涼香料茶，味蕾毫不疲憊。
展望牛年，Jimmy主廚透露了幾個新計劃，接下來幾個月將會明朗。擺脫疫情前勤出國做活動的工作型態，Jimmy主廚與團隊在台灣穩穩拓展腳步，忙碌踏實。
【享樂隨手拍更新】2020.11.18 喜相逢麵館
涼拌花生，涼拌苦瓜，涼拌黃豆芽，滷豬耳朵，麻辣素雞，皮蛋豆腐，番茄炒蛤蜊，黃魚煨豆腐，香料白酒明蝦，紅燒牛筋腩，蔥油拌麵，海瓜子豆瓣泥，清蒸野生深海帝王條，魚汁滑蛋，白菜獅子頭，金沙四季豆筊白筍，醃篤鮮，白果芋泥，棗泥鍋餅，佐餐威士忌……
※ 更多〈享樂隨手拍〉： https://goo.gl/UJJNUf
Teochew cuisine (also pronounced as Chiu Chow/ Chao Zhou) is food from the Chaoshan region in China Guangdong province. Teochew cuisine is quite similar to Hokkien (or Fujian) cuisine because of the similarities of the cultures and even language of these dialect groups, even though Teochew cuisine is somewhat influenced by Cantonese cuisine in terms of style and technique used. Compared to Hokkien cuisine, Teochew food is usually prepared with the intention of bringing out the freshness of the ingredients used. Case in point would be steamed pomfret and their cold crabs.
Taro paste with gingko nuts is a traditional Teochew dessert that many Singaporean Chinese absolutely love - whether they are Teochew or not. We usually only get to enjoy this dish at wedding dinners or when we dine in some restaurants. For this dish, the yam and then mashed. Pumpkin is added for sweetness (I think also for the colour because yam looks so boring on its own :p) To give the dish extra fragrance, lard (super sinful!!!) or fried onion oil is added. Instead of sweetening this dessert dish with water chestnut syrup, Roland used brown sugar instead. Gingko nuts are a must for this dish because they add a very yummy texture difference to this dessert. Traditionally, I believe coconut cream wasn't added but in Singapore, our yam paste is usually laced with a lot of coconut cream so don't badger us, okay :). This was done according to what we have eaten in Singapore. By the way, although we call this yam paste -- this is not really a sweet potato paste because in Singapore, taro is widely known as yam - although I know that in the US, yam is widely known as sweet potato. Both sweet potato and taro are both roots, they are actually different types of plants. Oh by the way, I just read that in Polynesia, taro is enjoyed in somewhat similar way too. How awesome! If you have never tried this dessert before, perhaps you can try to make them and enjoy it with your family.
See the ingredient list below for your easy reference.
We would like to give special thanks to Shogun by La Gourmet for letting us try out their high quality non-stick pan in the video respectively. If you like to buy them, you can go to any of the major departmental stores in Singapore such as Isetan, Robinsons, Takashimaya, BHG, OG, Metro or Tangs. These two brands are also available in most major departmental stores in Malaysia.
Hope you can recreate this yummy dish in the comfort of your home. Thanks for dropping by our channel.
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Jamie
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Ingredients:
Serves 5 - 6 pax
500g of taro - steam til soft then mash them w/ 50g of brown sugar
1 can of gingko nuts - boil in 200ml of water w/ 3 tbsps brown sugar
250ml of coconut milk (add 1/3 tsp of salt and bring it to a gentle boil)
150g of pumpkin (steam until soft & mash it up)
Note:
Use some cooking oil to fry the taro into a smooth dough. You can also use shallot oil or lard instead.
Once you have made the taro into a smooth dough, add coconut milk to make the dough into a smooth paste. Alternatively, you can just serve them separately and let your guests do it themselves.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml0Tknz2rVE
Thai Red Ruby Dessert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjczGEBxNg4
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