「地獄空」攝影集即將在八月中元節前出版,由知名設計師與攝影家黃子欽設計,內附在下二位高徒精美繪製符咒、心經版畫書籤、愣嚴咒牌、尊勝咒語...等,感恩十方大德助印,希望疫情退散,平安喜樂,後記如下:
野放台灣五十餘年,貪狼獨坐,三方四正殺破狼格局,少年多舛,白手起家,隨展覽雲遊四海,如閒雲野鶴常持各類底片機流連廢墟、山川、宮廟忘返,遂設幻影堂自詡堂主,一日三省「凡所有相皆是虛妄」,常宅於暗房沖片放大通宵、鍾情黑白世界之單純,彩色照片俗世繽紛花俏做作甜美甚至比現實更現實故少拍也。知天命之年有餘,了悟人生一瞬、眨眼即逝,雖非仙人,亦無道骨,初聞離垢地生清淨心,但離華嚴「不動地」尚遠,待修持也。
2017年盛暑拍畢《巨神連線》,心律不整差點心肌梗塞向閻羅王報到,意識死神隨伺在側,人生苦短,如何了生脫死、盡斷煩惱、無所罣礙、遠離顛倒……總不得解,蒙釋迦摩尼佛開示飆淚三晝夜,聞佛法數載始知自我渺如塵埃,甚感慚愧。閒暇乃參訪名寺古剎,禮敬焚香佛陀菩薩羅漢諸神天仙王爺媽娘,台灣宮廟千奇百怪、宗派錯綜複雜(佛教、道教、一貫道、天主教、基督教、齋教、回教&大同教、儒教鑾堂、天帝教&天德教、慈惠堂&勝安宮、軒轅教、道院、理教、萬國道德會、會靈山……)、神棍橫行(依人不依法、偶像崇拜、斂財、邪淫),因歷史變遷、社會動盪、政治鬥爭、意識形態等因素導致佛道混雜,但地獄造景稀少,後專注拍攝各殿閻王、判官、陰司、獄卒、七爺、八爺乃至一切罪人,各寺造景巧妙、耐人尋味,意境乖張溢於言表,造型扭曲非常人所能塑也,然匠心獨運、自成一格,專研西方藝術數十載方知真誠樸拙最美,絲毫不輸喬托(Giotto di Bondone,1267~1337)乃至米開朗基羅(Michelangelo Di lodovico Buonarroti Simoni 1475 ~ 1564)矣。
創立於1986年的石門金剛宮風景優美可眺望北濱,雖主祀四面佛,儒釋道眾神尊也不含糊,可過七星橋解厄、繞行五百黝黑羅漢敲鑼印心、跪拜亞洲最大臥佛涅槃像,安太歲自不在話下,甲子太歲爺雙眼長出手掌印象甚深,1994年經閻羅王指示廟公建造一條肚內設極樂世界及陰曹地府之神龍,行走暗黑通道觸動感應機關,只見面容猙獰受刑者呼天搶地喊冤、身邊盡是血肉糢糊殘肢敗屍腦漿塗地,十殿閻羅各司其職、威儀攝人。新北市林口區青嶺湖北文紫祥宮包公廟則以壁面彩塑地獄浮雕獨步全台,粉嫩色彩搭配卡漫風格,尤為造型簡直恐怖到可愛透頂,該廟主祀森羅殿閻羅天子包拯(包青天),陽世冤屈者可至此參拜祭解,求破懸案者眾,逢中元普渡皆以紙紮船渡亡魂至彼岸,全台唯一閻羅天子巨像籌備中,四周環繞墓地,適合修不淨觀也。台灣首尊彰化八卦山大佛旁南天宮(1971)地府則是首座電動地府,規模精小但驚嚇度破表,略顯破敗但五光十色仍蠻凶悍,出自已故台南大道長金登富之作,而電動神明起始可追溯至1960年代北港朝天宮。倒是嘉義水上鄉白人牙膏觀光工廠「戴相府」、「將軍府」設置十殿地府出乎意料之外,乾淨亮麗、ㄧ殿ㄧ間、簡單樸實。由高雄蓮潭龍虎塔龍口入內可見全臺唯一交趾陶地獄牆面,尊尊栩栩如生,續入龍身乃進聞聲救苦白衣觀音大士三十三化身浮雕隧道,造型設色甚為古錐。高雄大岡山超峰寺入口處「西方三聖蓮池海會」(阿彌陀佛、觀世音菩薩、大勢至菩薩巨像)旁設靜態十殿閻羅(1970年代初),雖略為陳舊然韻味猶存,續往上行可抵「證菩提道-釋迦如來應化事迹」雕塑園區,一攬世尊畢生精華。如來年邁時,琉璃國王為報長期被釋迦族輕蔑之傲慢心,世尊雖三次單獨伽跌坐 阻擋大軍進攻之路,但因緣果報無法逆轉,昔日婢女所生王子瞋恨無以復加,還是滅了祖國。自持神通第一目犍連不忍無辜百姓慘遭屠殺,遂以缽盛救度五百族人,最終卻化為血水,佛言神通廣大仍不敵千百劫業力,因緣果報屢試不爽。其母死後墜入餓鬼道飢餓難耐,目犍連遂展神通救渡,但所食尚未入口皆化為赤火,佛陀囑咐農曆七月十五日僧眾解安居自恣日,於盆中設甘露美食供養十方僧眾,因此超度亡母。後世「盂蘭盆法會」乃至「水懺法會」、「瑜珈焰口法會 」皆為消業障、斷塵垢之超渡儀軌,既渡亡魂也自懺悔。
台南麻豆代天府規模宏大、造型豔麗,不但可遊十八層地獄尚可逛天堂(1979年興建,1983年開放),燈光絢爛、聲響駭人,獨自漫步宛如觀落陰、地獄走一回。先過「心頭山」、入「清心池」、進「陰陽界」、抵「交簿廳」、達「鬼門關」、遊「補經所」、探「枉死城」、行「奈何橋」,至ㄧ殿泰廣王照「孽鏡台」現造惡原形,睹抱柱、火床等小地獄。二殿楚江王開「陰查簿 」判案定奪,觀糞尿泥、餓鬼、舞池、寒冰、膿血、鞭韃、舌犁、劍葉、戟腹拋接、砧截……等小地獄。三殿宋帝王刑罰為倒吊、銅鐵刮臉、挖眼、搗樁、倒烤、吸血、穿肋、抽筋、蛆蛀等小地獄……兼遊「四生(胎、卵、濕、化)回魂府」。四殿五官王掌管腰斬、拔舌、沸湯、刺嘴、剝皮、箭樹、車崩、射眼……等十六小地獄。隨五殿森羅王豋「望鄉臺」回眸親人最終眼後觀擊膝、誅心、刀山、飛刀火石……小地獄。六殿卞城王別稱「大叫喚大地獄」,轄火牛、虎啖、噬腎、鉗嘴含鍼、釘喉、磨摧、砍頭……等小地獄。七殿泰山王為「熱惱大地獄」,窺烙手指、抽腸、頂石蹲身、油釜滾烹、割舌穿腮……等十六小地獄。八殿都市王掌管「大熱惱大地獄」兼火狗、鐵汁、鐵蛇、鋸劈斷肢、釘板、灸脊、鐵丸、磅秤……等小地獄。九殿平等王直轄十八層「阿鼻大地獄」,直透地心、內中陰森、不見五指、滿溢地漿,皆為極犯,另轄紫赤毒蛇鑽孔、夾頂、鐵鴉、針雨、蜂蠍……等小地獄。至十殿輪轉王上「觀生臺」、「轉劫所八司」(查驗司 、稽善司 、考過司 、恩怨司 、壽命司 、支配司、掌劫司 、授生司)後至「孟婆亭」飲「醧忘湯」忘盡前塵往事,依前世功德過金、銀、玉、石、木、竹六種橋樑至「轉輪臺(紫河車)」入六道輪迴轉生投胎。據《十八泥犁經》記載,人過世後七七四十九天為「中陰生」,經閻羅王審判善惡業力判定去留或懲罰百千萬劫,犯五逆重罪則墮入「無間地獄(阿鼻地獄)」永劫不復。地藏王乃幽冥教主,統轄十殿閻羅,逢三曹普渡便在各殿設「講道所」超度尚存善根之鬼魂。
人類居於五趣(阿修羅、人、傍生、餓鬼、地獄)雜居地五濁惡世之堪忍世界,犯十惡業(殺生、偷盜、邪淫、妄語、兩舌、惡口、綺語、貪慾、嗔恚、愚痴)者必墮三趣惡道。如何出「三界」(欲界、色界、無色界)二十八天?凡人無此意識,別說能破「十二因緣」(無明、行、識、名色、六入、觸、受、愛、取、有、生、老死)還滅門,更別想斷除「四聖諦」(苦、集、滅、道)集地八十一品見惑與八十八使思惑(五利使-身見、邊見、邪見、見取見、戒禁取見、五鈍使-貪、瞋、癡、慢、疑),了悟「五蘊」(色、受、想、行、識)本空、「十二入」(眼、耳、鼻、舌、意、色、聲、香、味、觸、法)空、「十八界」空,破俱生我執與分別我執、法執甚至空執,生十一處「善心所」(信、精進、慚、愧、無貪、無瞋、無痴、輕安、不放逸、行捨、不害),降二十六處「惡心所」(貪、瞋、癡、慢、疑、惡見、忿、恨、覆、惱、嫉、慳、誑、諂、害、憍、無慚、無愧、掉舉、惛沉、不信、懈怠、放逸、失念、散亂、不正知),須知善根斷盡則陷永劫輪迴、無垠轉世之苦。
地獄可能空滅嗎?若地獄空乏人間多鬼怪,地獄淨空世間何嘗非淨土?若能證空性何處現地獄?
地獄曠古來便廣泛流傳各部族間,老死生滅為自然運行之基礎、宇宙意識之核心,然今文明昌盛如咱城邦並非慾望消弭之所,惡性所及實無可根除,礙於憲法國家法律社會軍隊企業公司學校家庭團體之層層束縛不亞於十八層,乃遁於壓抑、束己情懷,暗埋心底、日久貪嗔痴慢疑怨噌會疊穢。而六塵未熄,心多妄念,妖魔鬼怪魑魅魍魎孤魂閃靈出沒於荒郊乃至人間,會靈於曠野密林以增性靈乃出世高人修煉之舉,我等凡人擅闖宛如迪士尼般之人造地獄,三魂七魄尚不足以出竅,驚邪恐怖淒厲猙獰倒滿足了自以為是的慚愧,豈不謬哉?
病毒肆虐年半有餘,全球確診者逼近一億八千萬,枉死者近四百萬,堪比戰爭規模,望眾生發慈悲心、令往生者安息、善待其他物種、平等有情眾生。地獄本空,唯妄念生起一切羨慕嫉妒恨而地獄現前。盡以此書作為世界新冷戰獨裁者、超限戰者、暗網駭客、陰險狡猾冷嘲熱諷落井下石者之良知備忘錄矣。
姚瑞中寫於2021年端午節
Postscript
I have been living recklessly in Taiwan for more than fifty years. According to Zi Wei Dou Shu (Purple Star Astrology), Tan Lang is the sole star in my house of Self. This star, which represents xxx, forms an equilateral triangle with that star Qi Sha and Po Jun on the square chart and constitutes a Sha Po Lang pattern. The pattern indicates a kind of turbulence and change, a life of wandering with ups and downs and it tells a lot about my life. After my ill-fated youth, I started from scratch and traveled around the world with exhibitions that I participated. Like a flaneur, I wandered around ruins, nature, and temples with every type of film camera obliviously. Thus, I founded the Hall of Illusion and claimed to be the master of the hall. Several times a day, I pondered a quote from the Diamond Sutra, “Everything with form is unreal.” In addition, I usually stayed in the darkroom developing film and enlarging those negatives overnight. However, I treasured the simplicity of the black and white world. The earthly, gaudy, garish, phony and pleasing qualities within colored photos make the images even more realistic than the real world. It is not my cup of tea, so I seldom took colored photos. In Confucian thought, the age of fifty marks the stage knowing the mandate of Heaven. I am now at my fifties and realize how ephemeral human life is. However, I am not an immortal, nor having sagelike characteristics. I just learned that the stage of stainless (the second bhūmi) and develop a pure mind that is free from doubt and defilement. However, I’m still far from the immovable state and need to practice.
In the summer of 2017, after filming the work Incarnation, I experienced a severe heart rhythm problem which almost triggered myocardial infarction and could have killed me. Consequently, I realized that death was waiting for me and the life is too short to figure out how I can liberate myself from the cycle of Birth and Death. I couldn’t comprehend how to be free from all afflictions and worries and how to avoid delusive ideas. I wept for three days and nights after being enlightened by Shakyamuni Buddha. Up to the moment, I felt ashamed that I failed to realize that the self is as insignificant as dust after these years learning and practicing Buddhism. Since then, I have visited famous temples and monasteries in my spare time, worshiping Buddha, Bodhisattvas, arhats, and all the deities and immortals. Taiwan’s temples are myriad with a enormous number of sects, including Buddhism, Taoism, Yiguandao, Catholicism, Christianity, Chinese religions of fasting, Islam& Baháʼí Faith, Confucianism, Tiandiism& Tian-De Teachings, Xiwangmu cult, Yellow Emperor Sect, Precosmic Salvationism, Liism, World Wide Ethical Society, séance cult, etc. Some people even claim that they can mediate communication between the deities or spirits of the dead with human beings, having their believer rely on themselves instead of the orthodox dharma or dogma and pay excessive respect and admiration for the mediums or objects, accumulating wealth through such an unfair means or even harassing their believer sexually. Due to Taiwan’s historical changes, social turbulence, political struggles, and ideological issues, Buddhism and Taoism are somehow mixed. However, there are few emphases on the concept of the hell. As I took photographs of Yama of each court, judges, wardens of the underworld, jailers, General Fan and Hsieh (the ghost escorts) and all sinners, I found few temples cleverly created hellish scenes that are intriguing, exaggerating, and extraordinary. However, the creations are unparalleled unique. I have been studying Western arts for decades and then I came to realize that simplicity makes the most beautiful works of art. These hellish scenes can even compete with works of Giotto di Bondone (1267-1337) and Michelangelo Di lodovico Buonarroti Simoni (1475-1564).
Jingang Temple Shimen District, founded in 1986, overlooks the beautiful North shore. Although the temple is mainly dedicated to Phra Phrom (the Thai representation of Mahabrahma), spirits of Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism can also be founded in the temple. The worshipper can go cross the Seven Star bridge to relieve bad luck, walk along the five hundred arhat statues and knock on the gong to affirm one’s Buddha nature. Furthermore, the worshipper can also prostrate themself before Asia’s largest statue of Buddha in Nirvana (the Reclining Buddha statue) and pacify the Taoist Tai Sui deity of the year. I was impressed by the Jia-Zi Tai Sui General that a pair of palms grow out of his eyes. In 1994, the biō-kong (the person taking charge of the temporal affairs of a temple) received a divine inspiration from Yama (the King of Hell) that he had to build a sacred hall in the shape of a divine dragon, with the interior designed according to the World of Ultimate Bliss and the Underworld. When the visitor walks in the dark hallway, they will see the tortured people (dioramas, of course) scrunching their faces and crying bitterly and loudly in excessive grief as the visitor triggers the mechanism. One will even find them in the midst of flesh, body liquid and blood, mutilated limbs, and rotten corpses. While each of the ten Yamas are focusing on their own duties, showing their sacred dignity that collect visitors’ attention. The Baogong Temple in Linkou District, New Taipei City exclusively features colorful depiction of hellish scenes in relief in Taiwan. With its pastel shades and cartoon-like style, the relief is both grotesque and adorable at the same time. This temple is dedicated to Bao Zhen (also known as Justice Bao) representing the incarnation of Yama. Living people who have been treated unjustly can come worshipping Bao Gong and receive exorcism. Therefore, many people come here for seeking to solve unsolved cases. In Zhongyuan Festival (the ghost festival), the temple will burn the Zhizha (paper craft) boat to ferry the ghosts to the other shore, which is the shore of enlightenment. The only giant statue of Yama in Taiwan is still in the making. The temple is surrounded by a cemetery, suitable for meditating on the loathsomeness and impurity. Nantian Temple (1971), located next to the Eight Trigram Mountains Buddha in Changhua, features the first animatronic underworld. Despite the small size, the animatronic underworld is intensely shocking. Though it’s slightly worn, the colorful dioramas are still brutally ferocious. The creator was the late venerable Dao Zhang (Taoist priest) Jing Deng-fu while the origin of animatronic deities can be traced back to the 1960s Beigang Chaotian Temple. On the contrary, the Whiteman Toothpaste Tourism Factory in Shuishang Township, Chiayi, features ten Yamas with individual booth. The place is unexpectedly clean and polished yet keeps a simple and modest tone. Then, the Dragon Pagoda of the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas at Lotus Lake in Zuoying, Kaohsiung, holds the only relief of hellish scenes made of Kochin ceramic. All the figures are vivid and life-like. If one goes further into the pagoda, they will see a relief tunnel of the thirty-three incarnations of the white-robed form of Guanyin (Avalokiteśvara) on a white lotus, with a lovely and interesting design. Another Hall of Yama is built in the 1970s next to the entrance of Dagangshan Chaofeng Temple, located in the Alian District of Kaohsiung. Visitors will also see three statues of the Three Holy Ones of the Western Pureland (Amitābha, Avalokiteśvara, Mahāsthāmaprāpta) which assemble at a lotus pond. Although the hellish scene looks somewhat antiquated, you may still find its previous charm. If one goes further, they will reach the sculptural garden of “Attaining the Bodhi Way: the Incarnation of Sakyamuni Buddha,” where the visitor can see the essence of Bhagavato’s (meaning the Blessed one, one of the common epithets for Buddha) life. When Tathāgata (another epithet for Buddha) was old, the king of Kosala wanted to avenge the arrogance of the tribe of Shakyas who had long despised him, regarding him as a son of a maiden. Although Buddha has sat in lotus position alone three times to stop the army from attacking his tribe. However, one can never reverse the cause and following karma. The prince born of a maiden was so furious that he eventually destroyed his homeland. Maudgalyāyana (one of the Buddha’s closest disciples), who is said to have had supernatural abilities that surpassed the other disciples, could not bear to see the slaughter of innocent people. Thus, he saved five hundred people of his tribe with a pātra (an eating utensil of Buddhist monks). Unfortunately, everything he did was in vain, those who were saved eventually turned into a puddle of blood. The Buddha said that the supernatural abilities cannot surpass the power of karma. The cause and effect work all the time. When Maudgalyāyana’s mother fell into the path of hungry ghost, he used his supernatural abilities to save his mother from hunger. However, all the food turned into fire before being fed to his mother. Later, the Buddha commanded the monks to put nectar and dishes in a basin on the 15th day of the seventh month in the lunar calendar for the monks from all directions to free his mother from reincarnation. In later times, the Ullambana Dharma Service, the Compassionate Samadhi Water Repentance, and the Yoga Collection for Feeding the Searing Mouths Dharma Service are rituals to eliminate karmic hindrance and to cease to worldly delusions. Through such practices, one can free the dead as well as confess their repentance.
Madou Daitian Temple is a magnificent and colorful temple in Tainan. Not only can the worshippers visit the eighteen levels of Hell but also the Heaven (it was built in 1979 and inaugurated in 1983) here. The lighting and sound effects are stunning and frightening. When walking alone in the space, one may feel like taking a Guan Luo Yin trip (a Taoist necromancy which leads people’s spirits to hell and communicate with the dead ones) to visit the underworld prison. Before arriving the first court of the underworld, the visitor will walk through the Mountain of Heart Summit, the Pure Heart Pond, the Frontier between the Living and the Dead Realms, the Soul Registry Hall, the Portico of Demons, the Center for Complementary Teaching of Canonical Books, the Citadel of Premature Death, and the Bridge of Vanity. When one arrives at the first court, they will see King Chin-guang, who is in charge of the court, using the Mirror of Retribution to show the earthly form of evil creatures and also witness the sub-hell of Pillar-Holding and Fire Bed, etc. At the second court, King Chu-jiang collates the register of sins the souls of the dead have committed to impose the punishments. Here, you will see the sub-hell of Excrement and Urine, Hungry Ghost, Burning Dance Floor, Ice, Pus and Blood, Whipping, Tongue-Raking, Sword Blade, Stomach-Piercing, Chopping, etc. Next, the dead at the third court, ruled by King Song-di, will receive the punishments including inversion tortures, face-skinning with steel and copper knife, eye-wrenching, pounding, blood-sucking, rib-piercing, roasting, tendon-taking, being eaten by maggots. The visitor can pay a visit to the Palace of Soul-Resuscitation for the Four Forms of Creatures (birth from an egg, birth from a womb, birth from moisture, and birth by transformation). King Wu-guan is in charge of the fourth court. There are sixteen sub-hells at the fourth court including Waist Chop, Tongue Removal, Boiling Pond, Mouth-stabbing, Skin-peeling, Sword Tree, Burning Wheels and Cart, Eye-shooting, etc. Next, at the fifth court, sinful souls are allowed to ascend the Tower of Hometown-Viewing to take a final look of their family. The visitor will witness sub-hells of Knee-striking, Heart-slicing, Blade Mountain, Flying Swords and Burning Stones, etc. The King of Bian City takes charge of the sixth court, which is also known as the “Great Hell of Screaming,” with sub-hells including Fire Cattle, Tiger-Biting, Kidney-Eating, Mouth-Poking, Throat-Nailing, Iron Mill, Decapitation, etc. The King of Tai-shan is in charge of the seventh court, the “Great Hell of Heat and Fire.” The sixteen sub-hells at this court include Finger-Searing, Bowel-Hauling, Stone-Bearing, Boiling Oil, Tongue-Removal and Cheek-Piercing, etc. Next, the King Du-shi is in charge of the eighth court, the “Great Hell of Intense Fire and Heat,” and the sub-hells including Fire Dogs, Molten Iron, Iron Snakes, Dismemberment, Steel Spikes, Burning-Marrow, Iron Ball, Scale, etc. The ninth court is ruled by the King Ping-deng. It is known as the biggest court, Avici Hell (the Hell of Incessant Suffering), which if the lowest level of the hell realm and the interior is gloomily and terrifyingly dark. Those who committed the most serious evil deed will be sent to the Avici Hell. Sub-hells such as Poisonous Snake, Brain-Removal, Crow-Gnawing, Raining Needles, Wasps and Scorpions are included at this court. After arriving the tenth court, ruled by the Great King of the Reincarnation Palace, one can visit the “Observatory of Life on earth” and the “eight bureaus of the Reincarnation Palace” (including the Bureau of Judicial Control, the Bureau of Good-Actions, the Bureau of Bad-Actions, the Bureau of Debts, Gratitude, and Vengeance, the Bureau of Longevity and Destiny, the Bureau of Familial Ties, the Bureau of the Reincarnated, and the Bureau of Birth). The sinful one will be sent to the Pavilion of Mengpo and made to drink the Soup of Forgetfulness to forget all past affairs. According to the sinful one’s merits of previous life, they will go across one of the six bridges (gold, silver, jade, stone, wood, bamboo) to the “Reincarnation-Wheel (Wheel on the Crimson River).” Finally, one is able to reborn in the six realms. According to the Aṣṭadaśa nāraka sutra ( the Eighteen Hells Sutra), after one passes away, they will enter an intermediate and transitional state between death and rebirth, known as antarābhava in Sanskrit, for forty-nine days. The being will be evaluated by Yama, who will decide if one should get reborn or get punished at the hell. Those who committed the Five Grave Offenses (killing one’s father, killing one’s mother, killing an Arhat, shedding the blood of a Buddha, and creating a schism within the community of Buddhist monks and nun who practice for attaining enlightenment.) will be sent to the Avici Hell and stay there eternally. Kṣitigarbha is the Lord of the Nether World, ruling the ten court of Hell. The lord will set up the “Hall of Teaching” at each court to salvage those sinful ones who still obtain few merits at the offering rituals.
Human beings live the Sahā world (sahāloka in Sanskrit, meaning “endurance of suffering,” a concept of mundane world in Mahāyāna Buddhism) where they share with other reincarnations (including beings of the hells, of the preta, and of malevolent nature spirits) with five turbidities (the Kalpa turbidity, the view turbidity, the affliction turbidity, the living beings turbidity, and the life turbidity). Those who commit the ten evil deeds (killing, stealing, adultery, lying, using immoral language, slandering, equivocating, coveting, anger, and false views) must fall into the three evil paths (animals, preta, and hell). However, how can one escape from the three realms/ twenty-eight heavens (including the six heavens of the desire realm, the eighteen heavens of the form realm, and the four heavens of the formless realm)? Worldly people who don’t have such an awareness cannot leave the cycle of the twelve nidanas (meaning causes or motivations), let alone eliminate the eighty-one afflictions (that have been produced due to misunderstanding regarding reality) and the eighty-eight illusions (including five afflictions of advanced practitioners, also known as five views: view of self, extreme view, evil view, view of attachment to views, and view of morality; and five unintelligent temptations: desire, anger, stupidity, arrogance, and doubt) of thought within the three realms and four Arya satyas (noble truths, including suffering, arising, ending, and path). They cannot realize that the essence of the five skandhas (referring to aggregates of clinging, including the matter of form, sensation, recognition, mental formation, and consciousness) , the twelve ayatana (meaning sense base, including six internal bases: eye, ear, nose, tongue, body, and mind and six external bases: visible objects, sound, odor, taste, touch, and mental objects), and the eighteen dhātavah (meaning compositional elements of human existence, including six consciousness, six faculties, and their objects) are the emptiness and the void. Furthermore, they cannot dispel the two reasons for clinging to the idea of the self and the attachment to elemental constructs and even believe in the two (false) tenets that that karma and nirvana are not real and that the ego and phenomena are real. As a consequence, they fail to develop the eleven wholesome mental factors (faith, energy, conscience, being ashamed, non-attachment, non-aggression, non-delusion, calmness, equanimity, conscientiousness, and non-injuriousness) and cease the sixteen unwholesome mental factors (desire, greed, anger, delusion, arrogance, doubt, wrong view, wrath, enmity, hypocrisy, vexation, jealousy, parsimony, deceit, flattery, harming, ambitiousness, stupidity, lacking of faith, idleness, being unrestrained, forgetting, distraction, non-discernment, ). One must bear in mind that once all our virtuous roots are discontinued, they will be trapped in the never-ending reincarnation and the suffering of infinite continuity.
Is it possible that the hell will be empty one day? If the beings in hell will become extinct while evil spirits inhabit the mundane world, the world could be considered as a pure land. If we could witness the nature of the void, then hell will exist no more.
Since ancient times, the concept of hell has been widely spread among all tribes. Aging, death, beginning, and end are the basis of nature and the core of cosmic consciousness. However, the prosperous civilization as our island is not a place where desire can be eliminated. It’s impossible to eradicate evil nature. Since fetters brought by the constitution, the state, the law, society, the military, corporations, schools, families, and groups are not less than the eighteen levels of hell, the mortals repress themselves, bury their feelings. Day after day, greed, anger, stupidity, arrogance, doubt, and resentment are stacking. However, since the six dust (visible objects, sound, odor, taste, touch, and mental objects) has not yet been extinguished, people in the mundane world are still full of delusions. The demons, devils, evil spirits, and the wondering dead exist in the wilderness, while only advanced practitioners with transcendent would attempt to make contact with the dead in the wasteland and forest. Worldly people like us trespass in Disneyland-like man-made hell. It is absurd and ridiculous that the hellish scenes cannot stop us from perpetrating evil deeds, but the horrific and cruel scenes yet satisfy our self-righteous shame.
The pandemic has been boiling over for more than a year and a half. The number of infected patients worldwide is nearly a hundred and eighty million, and the death toll has risen to four million, which is equivalent to a war crisis. I hope that we can all be compassionate, give peace to the dead, treat all sentient beings well and equally. The hell is innately empty; however, deluded and misleading thoughts would give rise to all jealousy and hatred and then manifest the hell before us. This book merely serves as a memorandum of conscience for dictators of the world’s new cold war, supporters of unrestrained warfare, dark web hackers, and those who are cunning and contemptuous and maltreat others when knowing they have problems.
June 2021,
Yao Jui-chung
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疫情爆發以來,藝術家能做的事不多,平常就閉關在家其實挺習慣,但是總想為社會做些事、幫上忙,想了半天安撫人心也許還行吧!於是另一本「地獄空」將趕在中元普渡八月初出版上市,由典藏出版社社長發心首肯出版,設計名家黃子欽操刀,附贈很多符咒給大家趨吉避凶。諸惡莫作,眾善奉行,疫情消退,平安喜樂。附上後記給大家解封後參訪這些宮廟,觀照自己的心所。全文如下:
野放台灣五十餘年,貪狼獨坐,三方四正殺破狼格局,少年多舛,白手起家,隨展覽雲遊四海,如閒雲野鶴常持各類底片機流連廢墟、山川、宮廟忘返,遂設幻影堂自詡堂主,一日三省「凡所有相皆是虛妄」,常宅於暗房沖片放大通宵、鐘情黑白世界之單純,彩色照片俗世繽紛花俏做作甜美甚至比現實更現實故少拍也。知天命之年有餘,了悟人生一瞬、眨眼即逝,雖非仙人,亦無道骨,初聞離垢地生清淨心,但離華嚴「不動地」尚遠,待修持也。
2017年盛暑拍畢「巨神連線」,心律不整差點心肌梗塞向閻羅王報到,意識死神隨伺在側,人生苦短,如何了生脫死、盡斷煩惱、無所罣礙、遠離顛倒…總不得解,蒙釋迦摩尼佛開示飆淚三晝夜,聞佛法數載始知自我渺如塵埃,甚感慚愧。閒暇乃參訪名寺古剎,禮敬焚香佛陀菩薩羅漢諸神天仙王爺媽娘,台灣宮廟千奇百怪、宗派錯綜複雜(佛教、道教、一貫道、天主教、基督教、齋教、回教&大同教、儒教鸞堂、天帝教&天德教、慈惠堂&勝安宮、軒轅教、道院、理教、萬國道德會、會靈山…)、神棍橫行(依人不依法、偶像崇拜、斂財、邪淫),因歷史變遷、社會動盪、政治鬥爭、意識形態等因素導致佛道混雜,但地獄造景稀少,後專注拍攝各殿閻王、判官、陰司、獄卒、七爺、八爺乃至一切罪人,各寺造景巧妙、耐人尋味,意境乖張溢於言表,造型扭曲非常人所能塑也,然匠心獨運、自成一格,專研西方藝術數十載方知真誠樸拙最美,絲毫不輸喬托(Giotto di Bondone,1267~1337)乃至米開郎基羅(Michelangelo Di lodovico Buonarroti Simoni 1475 ~ 1564)矣。
創立於1986年的石門金剛宮風景優美可眺望北濱,雖主祀四面佛,儒釋道眾神尊也不含糊,可過七星橋解厄、繞行五百黝黑羅漢敲鑼印心、跪拜亞洲最大臥佛涅槃像,安太歲自不在話下,甲子太歲爺雙眼長出手掌印象甚深,1994年經閻羅王指示廟公建造一條肚內設極樂世界及陰曹地府之神龍,行走暗黑通道觸動感應機關,只見面容猙獰受刑者呼天搶地喊冤、身邊盡是血肉糢糊殘肢敗屍腦漿塗地,十殿閻羅各司其職、威儀攝人。新北市林口區青嶺湖北文紫祥宮包公廟則以壁面彩塑地獄浮雕獨步全台,粉嫩色彩搭配卡漫風格,尤為造型簡直恐怖到可愛透頂,該廟主祀森羅殿閻羅天子包拯(包青天),陽世冤屈者可至此參拜祭解,求破懸案者眾,逢中元普渡皆以紙紮船渡亡魂至彼岸,全台唯一閻羅天子巨像籌備中,四周環繞墓地,適合修不淨觀也。台灣首尊彰化八卦山大佛旁南天宮(1971)地府則是首座電動地府,規模精小但驚嚇度破表,略顯破敗但五光十色仍蠻凶悍,出自已故台南大道長金登富之作,而電動神明起始可追溯至1960年代北港朝天宮。倒是嘉義水上鄉白人牙膏觀光工廠「戴相府」、「將軍府」設置十殿地府出乎意料之外,乾淨亮麗、ㄧ殿ㄧ間、簡單樸實。由高雄蓮潭龍虎塔龍口入內可見全臺唯一交趾陶地獄牆面,尊尊栩栩如生,續入龍身乃進聞聲救苦白衣觀音大士三十三化身浮雕隧道,造型設色甚為古錐。高雄大岡山超峰寺入口處「西方三聖蓮池海會」(阿彌陀佛、觀世音菩薩、大勢至菩薩巨像)旁設靜態十殿閻羅(1970年代初),雖略為陳舊然韻味猶存,續往上行可抵「證菩提道-釋迦如來應化事迹」雕塑園區,一攬世尊畢生精華。如來年邁時,琉璃國王為報長期被釋迦族輕蔑之傲慢心,世尊雖三次單獨伽跌坐阻擋大軍進攻之路,但因緣果報無法逆轉,昔日婢女所生王子瞋恨無以復加,還是滅了祖國。自持神通第一目犍連不忍無辜百姓慘糟屠殺,遂以缽盛救度五百族人,最終卻化為血水,佛言神通廣大仍不敵千百劫業力,因緣果報屢試不爽。其母死後墜入餓鬼道飢餓難耐,目犍連遂展神通救渡,但所食尚未入口皆化為赤火,佛陀囑咐農曆七月十五日僧眾解安居自恣日,於盆中設甘露美食供養十方僧眾,因此超度亡母。後世「盂蘭盆法會」乃至「水懺法會」、「瑜珈焰口法會」皆為消業障、斷塵垢之超渡儀軌,既渡亡魂也自懺悔。
台南麻豆代天府規模宏大、造型豔麗,不但可遊十八層地獄尚可逛天堂(1979年興建,1983年開放),燈光絢爛、聲響駭人,獨自漫步宛如觀落陰、地獄走一回。先過「心頭山」、入「清心池」、進「陰陽界」、抵「交簿廳」、達「鬼門關」、遊「補經所」、探「枉死城」、行「奈何橋」,至ㄧ殿泰廣王照「孽鏡台」現造惡原形,睹抱柱、火床等小地獄。二殿楚江王開「陰查簿」判案定奪,觀糞尿泥、餓鬼、舞池、寒冰、膿血、鞭韃、舌犁、劍葉、戟腹拋接、砧截…等小地獄。三殿宋帝王刑罰為倒吊、銅鐵刮臉、挖眼、搗樁、倒烤、吸血、穿肋、抽筋、蛆蛀等小地獄…兼遊「四生(胎、卵、濕、化)回魂府」。四殿五官王掌管腰斬、拔舌、沸湯、刺嘴、剝皮、箭樹、車崩、射眼…等十六小地獄。隨五殿森羅王豋「望鄉臺」回眸親人最終眼後觀擊膝、誅心、刀山、飛刀火石…小地獄。六殿卞城王別稱「大叫喚大地獄」,轄火牛、虎啖、噬腎、鉗嘴含鍼、釘喉、磨摧、砍頭…等小地獄。七殿泰山王為「熱惱大地獄」,窺烙手指、抽腸、頂石蹲身、油釜滾烹、割舌穿腮…等十六小地獄。八殿都市王掌管「大熱惱大地獄」兼火狗、鐵汁、鐵蛇、鋸劈斷肢、釘板、灸脊、鐵丸、磅秤…等小地獄。九殿平等王直轄十八層「阿鼻大地獄」,直透地心、內中陰森、不見五指、滿溢地漿,皆為極犯,另轄紫赤毒蛇鑽孔、夾頂、鐵鴉、針雨、蜂蠍…等小地獄。至十殿輪轉王上「觀生臺」、「轉劫所八司」(查驗司 、稽善司 、考過司 、恩怨司 、壽命司 、支配司、掌劫司 、授生司)後至「孟婆亭」飲「醧忘湯」忘盡前塵往事,依前世功德過金、銀、玉、石、木、竹六種橋樑至「轉輪臺(紫河車)」入六道輪迴轉生投胎。據「十八泥犁經」記載,人過世後七七四十九天為「中陰生」,經閻羅王審判善惡業力判定去留或懲罰百千萬劫,犯五逆重罪則墮入「無間地獄(阿鼻地獄)」永劫不復。地藏王乃幽冥教主,統轄十殿閻羅,逢三曹普渡便在各殿設「講道所」超度尚存善根之鬼魂。
人類居於五趣(阿修羅、人、傍生、餓鬼、地獄)雜居地五濁惡世之堪忍世界,犯十惡業(殺生、偷盜、邪淫、妄語、兩舌、惡口、綺語、貪慾、嗔恚、愚痴)者必墮三趣惡道。如何出「三界」(欲界、色界、無色界)二十八天?凡人無此意識,別說能破「十二因緣」(無明、行、識、名色、六入、觸、受、愛、取、有、生、老死)還滅門,更別想斷除「四聖諦」(苦、集、滅、道)集地八十一品見惑與八十八使思惑(五利使-身見、邊見、邪見、見取見、戒禁取見、五鈍使-貪、瞋、癡、慢、疑),了悟「五蘊」(色、受、想、行、識)本空、「十二入」(眼、耳、鼻、舌、意、色、聲、香、味、觸、法)空、「十八界」空,破俱生我執與分別我執、法執甚至空執,生十一處「善心所」(信、精進、慚、愧、無貪、無瞋、無痴、輕安、不放逸、行捨、不害),降二十六處「惡心所」(貪、瞋、癡、慢、疑、惡見、忿、恨、覆、惱、嫉、慳、誑、諂、害、憍、無慚、無愧、掉舉、惛沉、不信、懈怠、放逸、失念、散亂、不正知),須知善根斷盡則陷永劫輪迴、無垠轉世之苦。
地獄可能空滅嗎?若地獄空乏人間多鬼怪,地獄淨空世間何嘗非淨土?若能證空性何處現地獄?
地獄曠古來便廣泛流傳各部族間,老死生滅為自然運行之基礎、宇宙意識之核心,然今文明昌盛如咱城邦並非慾望消弭之所,惡性所及實無可根除,礙於憲法國家法律社會軍隊企業公司學校家庭團體之層層束縛不亞於十八層,乃遁於壓抑、束己情懷,暗埋心底、日久貪嗔痴慢疑怨噌會疊穢。而六塵未熄,心多妄念,妖魔鬼怪魑魅魍魎孤魂閃靈出沒於荒郊乃至人間,會靈於曠野密林以增性靈乃出世高人修煉之舉,我等凡人擅闖宛如迪士尼般之人造地獄,三魂七魄尚不足以出竅,驚邪恐怖淒厲猙獰倒滿足了自以為是的慚愧,豈不謬哉?
病毒肆虐年半有餘,全球確診者逼近一億八千萬,枉死者近四百萬,堪比戰爭規模,望眾生發慈悲心、令往生者安息、善待其他物種、平等有情眾生。地獄本空,唯妄念生起一切羨慕嫉妒恨而地獄現前。盡以此書作為世界新冷戰獨裁者、超限戰者、暗網駭客、陰險狡猾冷嘲熱諷落井下石者之良知備忘錄矣。
姚瑞中寫於2021年端午節
豆盆缽 在 貓兒食堂-7貓2奴料理日記 Facebook 的精選貼文
【紅燒豆腐獅子頭】
爐灶上咕嘟嘟地燉煮著紅燒獅子頭,總讓我想起那個內心充滿小太陽般和煦溫暖的好友⋯⋯大學時期,大伙兒聚在學生宿舍,好友端出這道拿手菜款待大家,那是我初次品嚐並認識這道料理,畢業後偶爾重聚,忙碌的他仍不忘抽空上市集買菜,親自下廚製作這道功夫菜讓我們一飽口福,用心烹調的料理有溫暖人心的力量,這是他關心好友的方式,而這份篤實的情感,是任季節流轉也不曾褪色的永恆。在配方中加入大量的豆腐ㄧ起捏製肉丸子,不但口感更加軟嫩多汁,還能有效控制肉類攝取量,同時兼顧了美味與健康,不妨試試!
🍳【紅燒豆腐獅子頭】食譜筆記:
🥄計量:
1T=1湯匙=15ml
1t=1茶匙=5ml
1米杯=150ml
🍁[食材]6-8人份
📍獅子頭食材:絞肉600g、板豆腐(去水捏碎)400g、蔥末60g、薑末40g、鹽巴1t、高梁酒2T、胡椒粉少許、太白粉2T、全蛋1顆。
📍湯底食材:高湯500ml、香油1T、蝦米2T、醬油3T、烏醋2T、砂糖1T、胡椒粉適量、娃娃菜(剖半)2包。
🍁[作法]⏰40分鐘
1、獅子頭材料置於缽盆中揉捏至產生黏性。
2、步驟1挖取每份60-65g左右來回拋接塑成丸子狀,拍上薄薄ㄧ層低粉(份量外)備用,直到材料用畢。
3、取一小口鑄鐵鍋,倒入油約鑄鐵鍋0.5公分高,熱油至180度半煎炸至表面金黃,撈起瀝油備用。
4、用香油炒香蝦米,放入娃娃菜舖底,再放入高湯等其餘調味湯料。
5、將步驟3一顆顆排放好,煮滾後蓋上鍋蓋小火燉煮30-40分鐘。
6、燉煮時娃娃菜會軟化出水,湯汁會慢慢淹過獅子頭。
🐈⬛貓兒小食堂:
此配方約可捏製12顆獅子頭。
豆盆缽 在 賢賢的奇異世界 Youtube 的精選貼文
各位大家好,歡迎來到HenHenTV, 或者在中國我的頻道叫:賢哥的奇異世界,我是Tommy。
祝大家新年進步,財源廣進,鼠錢鼠不盡!大家也回到了自己的家鄉,和家人一起團聚吧~
在這裡和大家介紹一些馬來西亞比較特別的年菜,這些中華文化可能是經過了馬來西亞三大民族和地道性的熏陶之下演變而成,可能在其他國家也有一些類似的年菜吧~好啦!我們開始吧!
1. ACAR (娘惹泡菜)
a. 首先什麼是娘惹呢?娘惹在馬來文裡面叫Nyonya,在鄭和下西洋時,也有一些華人留下來落地生根,和當地的馬來人結婚,生下來的男生叫Baba巴巴,而女的叫Nyonya(娘惹),而在烹飪方面,也結合了中國的用料,和馬來人的烹調方式,就成了今天出名的娘惹菜,而Acar裡面有鳳梨,黃瓜,蘿蔔絲,加上花生碎,辣椒,芝麻等等,還有加上一些混醬,帶有芝麻的香味,甜中帶酸,加上煮好過後需要放進冰箱冷藏,在炎熱的下午吃,非常的開胃!由於裡面有鳳梨,鳳梨在福建話裡面叫onglai,就是旺你的同音,因此過年吃這菜也有這種寓意。
2. 盆菜
a. 盆菜是客家人的菜餚,傳統的盆菜會用木桶來盛裝,將很多的材料包括鮑魚,大蝦,花膠,干貝,豬肉,雞肉,冬菇,蠔豉(chi3), 髮菜等等,而他們會把該先吃的食物或者是名貴的食物放在最上面,而下面的則是一些可以吸收湯汁的食物,例如是蘿蔔或者是豬皮,除了有盆滿缽滿的好意頭之外,圍在一起,意思是團圓,盆菜的食材豐富,意思是豐衣足食,裡面的有些食材也是有好意頭的,好像髮菜和發財同音(在客家話裡面)還有蠔豉和好事是同音,就過年拿個好意頭。
3. 七彩撈生
a. 這個菜餚應該是馬來西亞獨有的吧!撈在這裡的意思就是拌,把七種不同的顏色的生菜絲,紅蘿蔔絲,西芹絲,沙葛絲,還有一些雪梨絲,柚子肉和魚生,然後撒上一些薄脆和花生碎,五香粉和少許胡椒粉,最後淋上混合酸梅醬,麻油和麥芽糖的醬料,每個人就拿著一雙筷子,一邊攪拌一邊說吉利的話,並不是轉圈圈的攪拌,而是由下往上拌,撈生在廣東話裡面的寓意就是撈得風生又水起,金黃色的薄脆代表黃金,而魚生則是年年有餘,而我們會在初七人日當天撈生,有越撈越旺的寓意。但是現在沒有分何時撈生,你覺得要拿個好意頭,隨時都可以。
4. 炸年糕
a. 我看在世界各地應該也有華人在過年時吃年糕吧~而我們則喜歡把年糕夾在芋頭和番薯之間,沾上麵粉汁拿去炸,炸到金黃色就可以,外皮脆脆的,而裡面則有年糕彈牙的咬勁,配上芋頭和番薯,簡直就是絕配啊!世界各地也有不同的年糕,好像日本的是白色的,韓國的是放進辣醬裡面,但我還是喜歡我們華人的年糕,年糕代表步步高升,有年年高的寓意,代表人們的工作和生活一年比一年提高。
5. 五香肉捲
a. 這個五香肉捲在檳城的福建話裡面叫Lobak,意思是滷肉,但是我們的滷肉和台灣的滷肉是不一樣,我們並不是泡在滷汁裡面,而是將魚肉和豬肉剁碎後,和剁碎的蔥,芫茜,冬菇,鹹蛋黃,蒜,紅蔥頭,沙葛,胡蘿蔔(在講下去就好像烹飪節目裡)把所有的材料混合之後,加上五香粉和一些調味料,把這些混合的肉放在軟腐皮上面,卷成一片後,拿去炸,炸了過後,切段,沾上特製的滷汁和辣椒醬就可以了。這只是其中一種lobak的做法,檳城最少要20,30種滷肉的,五香肉捲也有五福臨門的寓意,而把不同的材料卷在一起也有團員和子孫滿堂的寓意。
6. 算盤子
a. 這是客家人在過年時會吃的食物,顧名思義它長得好像算牌一樣,所以也有算錢算不清,財源廣進的寓意,它其實是用芋頭混合薯澱粉,加一些沙拉油在手上,把做好的麵團搓成算盤子,放進鍋裡,加進蝦米,木耳,豆干,冬菇等等的材料一起炒,加入一些調味料即可上桌。
除了這些比較特別的在馬來西亞才有的年菜,我們的年菜也有白切雞,蒸魚,炒長壽麵,滷豆干,炒大蝦等等一些好意頭的食物,其實年菜的意頭固然重要,但是一家人整整齊齊,健健康康的在一起團圓,那才是團年飯最重要的。
祝大家新年步步高升,健康美滿,我是Tommy,我們下個影片見!Bye Bye。
Music credit to chatao: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8U4aCKQas4
FOLK Chinese: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjkSJ4NubMw
豆盆缽 在 Bobo's Kitchen 寶寶滋味館 Youtube 的最讚貼文
花膠Dried fish maw(1 1/2安士oz)(42克g)
薑Ginger
魚肚Baked fish maw(1安士oz)(30克g)
薑Ginger
白蘿蔔Radish(2 1/2磅lb)(1160克g)
薑Ginger
糖Sugar(1茶匙Tbsp)
鮑魚Abalone(6隻pieces)
薑和蒜片適量Some ginger & garlic
紹興酒Cooking wine(2湯匙Tbsp)
蠔油Oyster sauce(2湯匙Tbs)
生抽Light Soy sauce(1湯匙Tbso)
糖sugar(1/2茶匙tsp)
胡椒粉適量Some white pepper
魷魚squld(3安士oz)(200克g)
青口mussels(15隻pieces)
蟹柳crab stick(4條pieces)
龍蝦丸Lobsterballs(7 安士oz)(200克g)
魚豆腐Fish tofu(7安士oz)(200克g)
薑Ginger
蝦Shrimp(8安士oz)(230克g)
帶子Scallops(8安士oz)(230克g)
醃蝦和帶子
適量:鹽, 胡椒粉, 粟粉
Seasoning for shrimp:
Some:Salt, white pepper, cornstarch
適量西蘭花和發菜
Some broccoli & black moss
粟粉水Cornstarch water:
粟粉Cornstarch(1 12湯匙Tbsp)
水Water(2 1/2湯匙Tbsp)
適量胡椒粉,魚露,鹽調味
Some white pepper, fish sauce, salt adjust the flavor Social Media:
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/bobokitchen.us/
Facebook Page: https://rb.gy/gtuwvm
For business inquires, email:
[email protected]
豆盆缽 在 飲食男女 Youtube 的最佳解答
一聲鳥鳴,劃破長空。
拍翅下,見三圍六村環抱出屏山一貌。蜿蜒着的屏山文物徑,古木蒼翠,偶爾幾幢青磚土瓦明清建築老房子,石牆上的斑駁,在無聲歲月中落地生根,盤踞在石縫磚隙中,一身老氣,對照出旁邊高聳的新型村屋,卻又顯得特別驕矜。
那是一千年以前的事兒。渺渺時空,茫茫人海,都從中原南下,先在江西再往廣東後遷居於此,得豐盛水土,自稱「客家」,勤儉刻苦,莫失莫忘,且保留了中原古韻。
天真地以為能攀星摘月的七層古塔「聚星樓」,某年風災後只剩下三層,靜默地立在原地。古雅風流倒映在地下出現的一口古井,那一汪清澈冰涼的水中育有搖頭擺尾色彩斑斕的錦鯉,只是架在井面的鐵柵欄狠狠地破壞了錦鯉圖的美感。曾有不少文人進士,寒窗苦讀浪漫軼事的覲廷書室,門前一對蒼勁有力的端莊黑字「德澤流芳、祟山毓秀」,仍舊雋刻在硃砂紅木上,以書香墨魂冷眼河山變改、戰火無情和世事更易,正是千古江山,英雄無覓。
尋常巷陌中,那株開得姹紫嫣紅的簕杜鵑,一樹紫紅放肆任性的開在三層高的村屋前,然而再矚目也不及寫着「屏山盆菜」的大字招牌。
惜舊。一碟一碗皆有情
招牌底下昏黃的舊店裏,一時被兩邊一列長架上堆放着過千的碗碟所震懾,罎罐碗碟、沙煲罌罉,銅皮木製陶瓷,公雞、萬壽無疆、蟠龍翻雲、清花等花紋,有些是民國,甚至清朝時候製的,全是舊食具,也有盆菜、九大簋古盛器。短毛頭圓臉兒的店主鄧聯興(聯哥),伸手把器笑謂:「全部都係呢條村好多家村屋拆嗰陣時丟嘅,我唔保留就冇㗎啦!」
聯哥是這盆菜店第三代傳人,也是屏山鄧氏的後人。隨時代變遷,圍村生活一點一滴改變了,舊東西正在消失中,他很想保留這裏的一事一物。碗碟叢中,電話猛烈又急促地響起,幾乎是從早到晚響不停,原來不少識途老馬惠顧過他,從此愛上那獨有的圍村客家風味,每年如燕歸來,都會在喜慶時節訂盆菜、九大簋。他拿起電話對客說︰「冇送貨㗎!對唔住!」
一般盆菜店為增生意,多設外送。聯哥寧願賺少些錢,卻堅持傳統,規定只可在鋪吃,或可訂在祠堂內的大地堂吃。「盆菜、九大簋屬於我哋圍村宴席菜,外送拎出去市區食,完全唔夾!要喺我哋條村食,咁先有風味!」他竭力保衛不單是一個失傳飲食,還有它的良美附景──
這天,就有村民大排筵席吃九大簋。「我有盆菜同九大簋,但九大簋佔咗生意嘅七八成。九大簋出面少做,係我至有!」聯哥、兒子Jeff、大廚及四五個女工,早在各有各活兒在忙,有的在巨型鑊前炒呀炒;有的將各款食物舀進銻盆,包上保溫錫紙;有的張羅執拾餐具和食物搬上貨車。眾人浩浩蕩蕩乘着車沿鄉村小路,直抵盛宴氛圍。
顯赫。祠堂寶地見昌盛
「九大簋,傳統喺祠堂食!」
頂着七百多年的歷史,鄧氏宗祠的雕樑畫棟,青磚紅瓦,在風霜刀劍下,仍汨汨細流着官宦世家一時的顯赫,鄧氏後人在此祭祖、慶祝節日喜事、父老子孫聚會等,無法撼動的熱鬧場面,記載着族人的昌盛,如一樹繁花。
繁花散落處,是這個過萬呎的大地堂前,擺好的二十多圍筵席,喜氣不言而喻。「通常我哋村民結婚、BB滿月、舊時新居入伙,同埋點丁燈,先會擺九大簋。傳統一圍枱人係雙數,所以要坐八仙枱。」八仙枱其實是四方枱,坐八個人,後期改為圓枱,人數再沒有規定。
開席了!祠堂門前的一根火苗,燃點藥引,數十萬台的紅衣鞭炮就措手不及在耳邊炸開,硝火及散開的紅衣頓時在空氣中飄飄而下,驚惶的心被期待開餐的興奮掩蓋。「喺祠堂擺酒近村屋,祠堂門前燒炮杖,村兄弟聽到炮杖聲,就知道開餐,走嚟食。」
上菜講次序,先來的是湯,其他出場不分先後,離不開雞鴨豬手冬菇……中間上子薑菠蘿,消滯去膩,最後才是小盆菜。「食到咁上下,主人家會逐枱敬酒,都係最長輩嗰個行先,譬如結婚,就由老爺奶奶率領。」
鄉情。添飯加菜作叮嚀
吃九大簋,味道其外,碗碗藏鄉情,像添菜,「主人家客氣啲,客人嚟到好似唔夠食,覺得唔好,會抽個裝食物嘅桶,譬如冬菇豬肉,睇吓邊啲唔夠,逐圍添加。」如有吃剩的菜,也會送給朋友親戚,充分如俗語說「又食又拎」般慷慨豪情。其他沒有請來的,主人家都會分給同巷,或隔離巷的鄉里,這份鄉土人情在城市裏,真正少見。
舊日請喜酒,取好事成雙,連餸菜也呈雙數,如「四簋」、「八簋」,但客家人認為九大簋的「九」與「久」同音,有長長久久之意頭,才有九缽。其實九大簋還有一款飯,加起來共十款,就是飯菜齊備,十全十美,人生的圓滿就捧在一手間,見證於觥籌交錯中。「以前唔係咁富有嘅,請食盆菜已經好好。係富貴人家,捨得使,先請九大簋,請最好嘅俾人食!」
昔時九大簋食材貴重,主人家一頓飯宴,揮擲千金萬丈豪氣。聯哥自小就見識有錢人排場,筵開百席是閒事,設流水席,大宴群親好友吃足三天三夜不足為奇,相比今天這樣的場面,當年盛況,由衷地帶點悲壯。
一碗。百菜百味筵席盛
「九大簋矜貴在每一樣餸都係獨立,唔似盆菜嘅食物混埋一齊,一菜一碗,比盆菜好食。」
簋,在古代是貴族放食物的器皿。他們客家人吃九大簋就用九個大簋放食物,後來簋經過演變,叫兩杉四缽。「杉,係大碟。缽,即係大湯碗。用碟同碗將餸分開嚟裝,唔好撈埋一齊。」
現時九大簋已全然以碗盛載,還因應時節調校不同菜式來宴客。「天冷天熱唔同,天熱煮清啲嘅好似梅子鴨,天冷煮南乳鴨,就濃啲。」口味的轉換,使人不易生厭。菜式獨立,百菜百味,使味蕾每次都有新衝擊,吃出其中的風味,這才是九大簋精緻之處。
近年在香港,大時大節吃盆菜愈演愈烈,愈趨普遍,但對吃九大簋,大眾多聞所未聞。
「做九大簋好少人識。譬如我同村都曾經有人做過,味道唔得,冇咗啦!美心啲大廚都嚟試食過,跟足啲餸推出,出晒報紙、電視,最後都係冇做。你唔係我哋圍村人,又唔係好似我做咗咁耐,係做唔到嗰種味!」聯哥帶點自豪說。
客家人靠山吃山,靠水吃水。九大簋菜式在不同村或會有差異,主要視乎村內有甚麼食材便用甚麼,如村有魚塘,便有淡水魚。或者宴席主人家的要求,捨得出錢的,便有山珍海錯。聯哥則身為屏山鄧族,傾盡識才,續承庥美。「我由細到大喺條村嘅九大簋大多都係呢九款,陳皮鴨湯、了酸豬手、黃酒雞、南乳鴨、炸門鱔、雞汁燴花菇、魚肉丸、子薑菠蘿、小盆菜,加埋雞鴨飯,總共十款。」
獨特。自家佳餚自家味
做九大簋,逐樣做,炆、炸、煮、燉、燴、滷、醃樣樣齊,比起盆菜,工夫多,利錢低,但聯哥廿多年來,仍恪遵一份客家人特色。其他人依循抄襲,卻做不到同樣的美味。他的九大簋味味是精品,首重用料精。「我哋嘅炆豬肉同了酸豬手,係用每朝劏嘅新鮮豬。」連炸門鱔都是新鮮即日捕,門鱔來價貴,外面會用較平宜的炸芋頭、炸花枝丸代替。「圍頭客家近海,舊時喺大埔東嘅海面有好多門鱔魚,所以我哋嘅九大簋一定有門鱔。」
再者,聯哥是元朗原居民,魚販和豬農必然將新鮮門鱔及本地新鮮豬先預留給他。而且坊間沒有多少人做九大簋,要煮出真正味道,他須用圍村傳統的獨有調味。「炆豬肉嘅麵豉醬,係用黃豆加麵粉自己整;黃酒雞嘅黃酒,用糯米同酒餅自己釀;子薑菠蘿嘅子薑,每年六七月啱時候用醋嚟醃,味道先正宗。」調味可說是做九大簋的靈魂,更重要還有手藝。
「煮九大簋,主角係做小盆菜嘅炆豬肉,豬肉炆得好,啲汁滲到入盆底嘅蘿蔔、豬皮同枝竹,成個盆菜都好味。」
他選腩肉和前胛,斬了件,燒熱巨鑊,下油,加入豬肉、香料、糖,之後加水。大灶火力猛,豬肉容易黐底,所以要揸起大鑊鏟不停攪動。一鑊豬肉,炆上一小時,來來回回翻廿多次。要懂得用力,不須太大力,順着力去剷。豬肉炒到六、七成熟,才下麵豉醬和南乳,既不黐底,醬料香味發揮得最好。他還有秘技,就是炆好的豬肉,不要趕着吃,攤放兩至三小時,更臻入味。
眾望所歸的炆豬肉,樣子紅彤彤,乾淨利落,不見有油水蔓延,鬆軟不油膩,吃時展露山賊氣質一口吃掉,入口的瞬間,豬皮帶點嚼勁,豬油與醬汁完美的邂逅,令嘴角上揚的味道,毋須言語,就有口水直流的魔性!
宗親。人人為我厚恩情
這無法停口的炆豬肉,手法技藝是傳承自聯哥父親,也是他人生的第一個大恩人。他父親以前在村裏務農,懂煮幾味撚手家鄉菜。遇有同村喜事要煮盆菜或九大簋,就會叫他來幫手。
「老竇完全係義務,永無托手踭,每次做完喜事,封番封利是仔,小小心意!唔會賺到錢。大家同村,你幫我、我幫你,人情味好好﹗」聯哥憶述說。聯哥十一歲起,就跟父親到祠堂煮九大簋,他充當小幫手,切菜起爐生火等。「我好鍾意做呢樣嘢,有得玩又有得食!」而父親負責掌勺,他看得多,慢慢學會了煮筵席菜。酒菜圍繞,鄉親為屏,長年累月浸淫在筵席的氣氛中,團聚的熱鬧、鄉里的恭親,種下對老鄉土深微綿邈的感情來。
九五年,其父因年邁而退休。「成條村都冇人做,我唔接手做,九大簋就會失傳!」他惟有繼承父親的衣缽,把手藝延續下去,也保留了當時碩果僅存的盆菜和九大簋。
「老竇係業餘,搵唔到食。我要開鋪,煮九大簋嚟做生意。」起初他的字號寂寂無名,三日打魚,兩日曬網,大拍烏蠅。同村的人知道他的難處,也念起他兩父子經常為村出心出力,都不時帶朋友回村,藉詞宴客,特意叫聯哥煮九大簋,讓他有生意可做。甚至容許他在富濃烈圍村色彩的祠堂擺席。
「最感激係同宗兄弟鄧達智,市區人先至認識我。」九五、九六年時著名時裝設計師鄧達智與傳媒、文化界,在圍村吃過聯哥煮的盆菜宴後,經過報道,盆菜開始廣受大眾認識,聯哥越見名氣,即使沒賣廣告,生意大旺。連明星周潤發、甄子丹、郭富城,政界唐英年、葉澍堃等名人都是常客。
人情,就是人人為我,我為人人,交心而生。「老竇教我,對鄉親要好,因為同村都係兄弟,自家人,有力出力,有心出心。」他對父親的教誨,仍刻記在心。像是每年清明拜山祭祖,他一切都以村事為先,年年為此都推卻不少大宗的九大簋生意,也幫族人煮山頭。只要村裏要他幫手,他從來都是義不容辭。
每朝六七點,天邊方呈魚肚白,沉睡的鄉村,巷弄後小門半掩,漆黑中廚房亮着一團燈光,冒出縷縷煙霧,傳出咔嚓咔嚓聲響。一個肥圓身影,汗涔涔地已提起鑊鏟,鏟挖着鑊中豬肉,繁忙的氣力活早就展開了。聯哥臉上仍含笑說︰「我幾乎日日都咁早,一直做到晚上六七點,十二三個鐘㗎!但一啲都唔辛苦!」
他奮力以煙火、菜甜、肉香,留住屬於圍村風味的九大簋,以食物的味道譜寫宗族和鄉村人情的記憶,透過節日、慶典,寄語一代又一代人的祝福,不忘祖、不忘根,如一根無形的絲線,把人與人拉近了。
撰文:孟惠良
攝影:陳秉謙、魯雋華
屏山傳統盆菜
地址:元朗屏山塘坊村36號(屏山文物徑路口)
電話:2617 8000
營業時間:11am-9pm
詳情: http://bit.ly/2UxOwEC
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