關於 langoustines ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

三星大廚Alexandre Mazzia的路邊餐車和brunch

疫情延續一年了, 法國餐廳始終還在關閉狀態, 確診人數, 死亡人數持續飆高, 莫非年初看到的隧道盡頭的疫苗曙光只是被關久了的頭暈目眩和迷彩幻覺?

最慘的行業之一就是餐飲, 從去年11月再度封城後, 全法國只剩外賣了. 餐廳面臨兩種選擇: 外賣或關閉(還不是倒閉啦, 雖然也有倒閉的).

很多高級餐廳可能是無法擺下身段, 不願降低格調或是無法如此華麗轉身, 尤其是高級餐廳多半選擇暫時關門. 但是面臨的困境是不少員工無法承受長時間的待業, 只好離開餐飲, 另謀出路.

像三星的Pierre Gagnaire或是L’Ambrosie.

餐飲人員離職表面上看起來似乎只是一時的變化, 深入看, 其實是這些專業人的過去訓練的職業浪費. 而且, 疫情過後餐飲要重新出發也不是一時三刻就可以找到夠專業的人員和組織團隊, 重啟一家各方面都要求高標的星級餐廳.

就別提如此長時間的手藝荒疏, 主廚們難免失去做菜的手感與靈感,

當然多數餐廳則想辦法求新求變, 在疫情混亂中求生存.

. 今年的新三星主廚Alexandre Mazzia(馬賽的AM餐廳)玩得最出色的廚師之一.

其實在我看來, 他的作品是最不適合做外賣的: 最後一刻的盤飾, 香草鮮花, 美麗而脆弱, 而且溫度鮮度都很緊張.

所以他的路邊餐車當然不是餐桌上的作品直接放進紙盒外賣, 而是重新設計菜色. 比如黑松露熱狗三明治啦.

他大概玩出興頭, 越玩越大. 現在他推出大咖廚師聯手的周日brunch.

隨著他響應的大咖名單星光閃閃: ***Christophe Bacquié, **Yoann Conte, Frederic Duca, ***Pierre Gagnaire, *Christopher Hache, Christophe Michalak, Emmanuel Perrodin, Nadia Sammut, les frères Tourteaux, *David Toutain, ***Glenn Viel, Georgiana Viou…

可以外帶回家, 也可以在他的路邊餐車旁野餐.

以下是每個周日即將登場的時間表:
3/28 : David Toutain **
4/11 : Les frères tourteaux **
4/18 : Glenn Viel **
5/2 : Christophe Bacquié ***

本周日即將登場的Alexandra Mazzia X David Toutain菜單如下, 如果你正好在馬賽附近, 去讓我們羨慕一下吧?

Huître échalote framboise 紅蔥-覆盆子-生蠔
*
Anguille sésame noir 黑芝麻鰻魚
*
Œufs de truite sauvage marinés au saké et lait fumée 野生清酒醃漬鱒魚卵+煙燻奶
*
Anguille fumé et chocolat煙燻鰻魚+巧克力

Buns à la viande, jus au thym 迷迭香汁烤肉割包
*
Banane plantain au curry vert, gel de piment aux graines de moutardes綠咖哩香蕉, 辣椒凍和芥末籽


下面是外帶菜單


Huître glacée au kiwi, crème fraîche acidulée 奇異果生蠔
*
Oursin en fine gelée d’eau de mer, crémeux fenouil, caviar doriemki 海水凍海膽, 茴香乳,魚子醬
*
Tartare de saint Jacques, asperges vertes, ail des ours 先扇貝韃靼, 綠蘆筍, 熊蒜
*
Focaccia huile d’olive 橄欖麵包
*
Consommé de légumes racines au poivre verveine 胡椒馬鞭草蔬菜湯
*
Langoustines au saké et vinaigre de têtes de poisson grillé et agrumes 清酒小螯蝦, 烤魚頭膏湯汁和柑橘
*
Moshi au persil 羅勒麻糬
*
Patate douce, mangues et dattes, eau de verveine citron et mélisse.番薯, 芒果, 蜜棗, 檸檬馬鞭草水和檸檬草.

大家不用羨慕, 我也只能看看圖片, 看看新聞稿, 遙想地中海的美食風光～

Photo credit: Stephane Riss

Scottish Langoustines x 2, on Squid Ink Carnaroli Risotto, Korean Persimmon & Ciboulette.

I love scampi's everywhere, but for some unknown reason, the ones in Scotland or Japan all with slightly different DNA seem to ship the best, and remains meaty not mealy, not stuck to the shells. When you grill the shells, the aroma is so beurre noisette buttery, addictive 🤤😍. I used Korean not Japanese seasonal persimmons 柿 because the latter is way too good & sweet on the Brix scale. I think the unique Persimmon taste profile pairs so well with Langoustines so it's prob just me 🐼

Speaking of Prawns 🦐, although Spain, Italy & Portugal are famous for their red prawns, and now also Mozambique.. but in reality Taiwan also has good ones available! This stall at【Ning Xia Night Market 寧夏夜市 in Taipei】is one of my favourites - they sell both local deep sea #胭脂蝦 Red Prawns & also 小龍蝦 #Langoustines ! This mixed portion, wok fried-steamed that I ate by myself was NTD $375 😅. You have to check the prices here hence I remembered!
•
Ning Xia Night market from memory has 2 stalls which received a @Michelinguide recommendation, a Pig’s Offal Soup shop which I also like and visited which is very lovely indeed just haven’t posted, and the other shop sells Taro Pastries with Salted Duck Egg Yolks, which I have been eating for many years before others seemed to copied them - and back ages ago and when there was still an metal undercover part of the market on the other side, I already did my research & their owners told me they were actually from Canton region not local Taiwanese 😬 I sort of suspected it was not normal back then because although Taiwan/Fujian in China both eat a lot of Taro & 地瓜 Sweet Potatoes, but their recipe wasn’t really both! So yeah Taiwan is always a melting pot, but this Seafood stall here is like my own secret place too ... 🐼 !

Portuguese Garlic Shrimp by Jimmy’s Table

This is definitely one of our favorite dishes to eat in Portugal. We ate this in Lisbon, Algarve and Porto. Every restaurant that had this dish, we ordered it. My version is a more elevated version where I infused the olive oil with shrimp shells to give a powerful shrimp flavor blast! It also makes for a fantastic dip for crunchy French bread. What's best is that this dish is so easy to make! Hope you enjoy it!

Ingredients 食材:
0.5-1 kg of large red shrimps or langoustines with heads (大蝦)
1/2 cup (15 pieces) of Garlic - sliced (大蒜)
1 cup of Cilantro - leaves only (香菜)
2 lemons - halved and squeezed for juice, seeds removed (檸檬)
1-2 tablespoons of paprika (紅甜椒粉)
1 glass of white wine (白酒)
5-6 tablespoons of garlic infused olive oil (大蒜橄欖油)
Salt - for taste (鹽)

Finishing Ingredients 撒料調味:
1/2 lemon (檸檬)
1/4 cup cilantro (香菜)
Fresh loaf of crunchy french bread (法國麵包)

STEP 1
Cut garlic into slices.
步驟 1
將大蒜切成片。

STEP 2
To prepare the shrimp, we need to remove the shell without removing the head and tail. We do so by using a pair of scissors to cut down the spine of the shrimp from where the head meets the body upto one segment before the tail.
步驟 2
準備蝦子，將蝦殼身的部分剝除，保留頭跟尾巴，所以我們可以準備剪刀，從跟蝦頭連接的地方至蝦尾巴部分剪開。

STEP 3
Then start to peel away the shrimp shell and legs in the middle section. Be careful not to peel off the tail or head. Save the shells to be used to flavor the oil. Remove the dark, digestive tract along the spine, as this is dirty and you don’t want to eat it. Rinse with cold water to clean and drain.
步驟 3
接著剝除蝦子中斷的殼跟腳的部分，小心不要將頭跟尾巴去除了。記得將蝦殼留著，要來增加油的風味。接著也將蝦子的腸泥一併去除，並用清水簡單沖洗、瀝乾蝦子。

STEP 4
On the stove, add in 5-6 tablespoons of garlic olive oil until entire surface is covered with a layer of oil and heat up your pan. The shrimp and garlic infused olive oil will be used later to dip your bread in, so be generous!
步驟 4
在鍋中放入5-6匙大蒜橄欖油，直到整個蓋過鍋底，然後開火加熱油。因為等會兒會再另外加入蝦子與蒜頭，最後麵包也要沾這個由來享用，所以油量放的不能太少唷！

STEP 5
When the oil is very watery in the pan, it is hot enough. On low to medium heat, add in shrimp shells to fry. The goal is the get all of the great shrimp flavors into the olive oil.
步驟 5
當油加熱至水狀時，代表已經足夠熱了。將火調至中火，加入蝦殼先炒香。這個步驟是為了將蝦子的香味煮入油中。

STEP 6
When the shrimp is fried, about 5-8 minutes, then remove and strain the rest of the oils from the shrimp shells.
步驟 6
將蝦殼炸約5-8分鐘後，將蝦殼撈起然後瀝乾蝦油。

STEP 7
Add in garlic slices to simmer and fry into the shrimp olive oil for about 30 seconds to a minute without browning the garlic too much.
步驟 7
直接在蝦油的鍋中加入大蒜來煨煮跟翻炒，大約30秒～1分鐘，別將大蒜炒得太焦。

STEP 8
Add in shrimp one at a time and ensure entire pans surface is utilized. Add 1-2 teaspoons of sea salt for taste. Evenly add in 1-2 tablespoons of paprika.
步驟 8
慢慢的將蝦子排入鍋中，好好利用與鍋子接觸的地方來烹煮。加入1-2茶匙海鹽，再均勻加入1-2湯匙紅甜椒粉。

STEP 9
After cooking for about 1-2 minutes, flip the shrimp to cook the other side until golden orange.
步驟9
大約烹煮1-2分鐘左右後，將蝦子翻面煎至金黃橘色的狀態。

STEP10
Add in 1/2 cup of white wine. Squeeze in a lemon. Cook for about 5-10 minutes until shrimp are fully cooked. This will depend on the size and thickness of the shrimp.
步驟10
接著加入1/2杯白酒，擠入檸檬汁，接著再繼續煮5-10分鐘，讓蝦子完全熟透。(烹煮時間會因蝦子大小不同而不等)

STEP 11
Be sure to taste the garlic shrimp olive oil sauce to see if you need to add in more salt, wine, or lemon juice. Towards the end, pour in another 1/2 cup of wine so that it will give it a more fragrant wine taste.
步驟11
自行嚐嚐蝦油的味道是否足夠，若不夠可以再加鹽巴、白酒跟檸檬來做調整。最後在要起鍋前，將剩餘1/2杯的白酒加入鍋中，能讓這道菜更有葡萄酒的香氣。

STEP 12
Lastly, add in the cilantro and stir in. We don’t want to over cook the cilantro.
步驟12
最後加入香菜簡單拌炒一下(香菜不適合過度烹煮)

STEP 13
For plating, you can either serve it in a pot or directly using a cast iron pan. Prepare some sliced french bread for dipping. Add in half a lemon. I used a torch to burn the lemon for a good lemon smell, but it can also be squeezed into the shrimp. Top it with some cilantro.
步驟13
關於擺盤，可以直接使用烹煮時的鐵鍋，或者準備鐵盤來擺也很有葡萄牙的風味。準備一些切片的法式麵包。我用噴槍稍微烤檸檬切面，以在這道菜聞到更濃厚檸檬的香氣，也可以將其擠入菜中。
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如果自家製Omakase 係一個非常消耗時間嘅日本菜系列，會唔會覺得西餐會好啲？
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算啦，整啦！好食架！有剩嘅汁記得送俾人試下，叫人睇下唔熟唔食我就心滿意足喇！

Btw, 介紹一下個食譜先。 個汁會係用大量嘅紅蝦頭炒香做打碎做汁，最後會在用蜆嘅鮮甜將味道昇華，索入意粉入面。用到本地新鮮龍蝦，簡單牛油煎香。 講少少擺盤，但係其實個濃湯先至係主角！


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