進入俄羅斯 Entering Russia
6月4日中午，終於來到了這一刻，準備要進入戰鬥民族的國度了！從滿洲里出發時還是有些擔心，倒不是因為怕戰鬥民族會把我吃掉，而是因為這次又要用一張不正常的證件（世界盃觀賽者ID）入境一個新的國家了，而且還是在開放觀賽者免簽入境的第一天，入境官員大概還沒碰過我這種案例，誰知道會被如何刁難？尤其在我到達巴士站、發現全車只有我一個人是遊客的時候就更加緊張。
結果過關意外順利，比兩個禮拜前從吉爾吉斯入境中國時要順利的多。中國方的出境十分快速，而俄羅斯方的入境官員的確是對著我的護照和世界盃觀賽ID多看了幾眼，但也沒問什麼問題，5分鐘後我的護照上就被蓋了俄羅斯的入境章了，之後移民官還熱情的說了一句我聽不懂的俄文，大概是歡迎我來到俄羅斯的意思吧！
滿洲里和後貝加爾（俄羅斯境內第一個小鎮）相隔不到10公里，來往兩邊的客運班車每天有好幾班，為的不是像我這種遊客，而是眾多在兩國之間拉貨的商人們。一上車，看到的是貨物比人還多的景象，各種形狀顏色的箱子都有，從香煙到嬰兒車無所不包。在這波大多數是俄羅斯人的人潮裡，幸運的碰到了兩位固定兩國跑的中國人，一位去俄羅斯拉貨的大叔，和一位在俄羅斯城市赤塔賣電子產品的大姐，他們先後像天使一樣出現在我身邊，解釋我不清楚的俄文問題，還帶我下車一路走到火車站，搞的我最後連路都不用認了，感謝貴人相助 :)
相較於滿洲里，後貝加爾是比較蕭條的一個小鎮，泥土路、木造平房、前不著村後不著店，加上那天天氣不好，俄羅斯給我的第一印象是憂鬱的，就如同我過去對它的刻板印象一樣。在這樣陰沉的天氣中我來到了後貝加爾車站，搭上了傳說中的西伯利亞大鐵路，期待未來幾天能夠見到這個國家不同的面貌。
Taiwaneses gave Russians a nickname: the people of wars, and June 4 was the day when I entered their territory. I was a bit nervous - not because the fear of being killed and eaten by them, but because again I was holding an unusual document: the world cup FAN ID, which can be used during the game season to enter the country without a visa. June 4 was the first day for game attendees to enter, and I was worried that the immigration officers would not understand what the rule is.
It turned out to be surprisingly smooth, even smoother than my entry to China two weeks ago. Exit from China went very quickly, and entry to Russia was also instant. The officer did spend a bit more time to look at my passport and FAN ID, but before I had to answer any question, I got the entry stamp on my passport. The officer also warmly said a Russian sentence that I didn't understand, but I guess it was to welcome me to Russia.
There are multiple buses a day between the Chinese city Manzhouli and the Russian town Zabaikalsk, but those bus are not for tourists like me. Instead, they are for people to trade goods between the countries regularly. As I stepped into the bus, there was more stock than passengers, among who I was the only tourist. Thankfully, two angels helped me on the way - one Chinese dude who trades products between two countries, and one Chinese lady who has been selling electronics in Chita, Russia for 8 years. The former translated Russian questions that I did understand, and the latter guided me to the train station. I went through the whole trip without thinking of where to go. Felt really grateful for their help.
Compared to Manzhouli, Zabaikalsk is much less developed. Dirty roads, wooden flat houses, lack of business, plus the bad weather that day, made the first glance of the country rather depressing, just like its stereotype in my mind. In this gloomy atmosphere, I boarded a Trans-Siberian railway train, hoping to see different facets of this nation.
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