天頤 Yi | 中菜 Omakase
中國菜講究鑊氣盪熱，份量豐富易於共享。因此以廚師發辦（Omakase）形式呈現中國八大菜系，相信在亞州暫時就只有摩柏斯21樓的天頤在做這件聽起來有點吃力不討好的美食任務。
The Chinese culinary tradition tends to emphasize on the concept of abundance, and so the cuisine has a penchant for family style service. As such, Yi at the Morpheus, with a focus on representing the 8 regional cuisines of China in a tasting menu format, has its work cut out for it.
但中菜「不時不食，突顯食材原味」的烹調邏輯，在天頤范主廚對時令愈見成熟的敏感度和烹飪技術配合下，玩起 Omakase，卻令人悟出粵菜中隱含著的美感、靈活多變和食味之豐富。
Executive Chef Fam, with his acuity to seasonality and wealth of knowledge in cooking techniques, is able to create an omakase experience that highlights Chinese seasonal produce as well as the cuisine's beauty and dynamism.
在半年後重開的天頤，摒棄了以往菜式每日改變的堅持，重新設計了每月推出陳新，以時令節氣為靈感的12道菜式菜單，令餐廳能更專心提升客人用餐體驗。
Reopening after a 5-month hiatus, Yi's tasting menu is now inspired by the Chinese solar terms and changing monthly, rather than daily, so that there's more attention paid to the dining experience.
菜單：「夏至」（圖1）
第一道｜毛蟹：魚籽｜糟鹵 （圖2）
開首第一道菜，往往代表菜單規格的標桿和誠意的表述。這道菜把北海道毛蟹、伊朗魚籽醬和中式糟鹵的三種 umami ，碰撞出細膩複雜的味道層次。毛蟹是至陰至柔的細嫩、魚籽醬則富有爆發力，最後再收斂到糟鹵的陳酒甘甜氣息。
Course 1 - Horsehair Crab: caviar, rice wine lee
Combining three ingredients rich in umami: the delicate Hokkaido horsehair crab, the explosive Iranian caviar, and the lingering depth of a Chinese pickle sauce made with aged rice wine lee, this dish confers a complex yet harmonious savoriness, setting the course for the rest of the menu.
第二道｜鮑魚：南非鮮鮑｜紅燒（圖3）
鮮鮑雖然在風味上不及干鮑濃厚，但卻保留了鮑魚的本味和彈性。即席紅燒呈上，菜式充滿美感又能留住溫度。
Course 2 - Abalone: fresh South African abalone, red-braised
While fresh abalone doesn't have as much umami as its dried counterpart, it retains its natural flavors and al dente texture. The dish is finished and sauced tableside, providing a show as well as preserving the optimal serving temperature.
第三道｜湯：花膠｜菌（圖4）
深海鱸魚花膠的鮮美，貫穿了這道顏色慢熬至金黃色的老火雞湯。溫潤舒暢的味道，最後以意大利豬臉頰肉碎提鮮。
Course 3 - Soup: fish maw, mushroom
The gelatin-rich seabass fish maw is pillowed in a glistening golden stock made with stewing hen, with a sprinkle of minced iberico pork cheek. It's soothing and nourishing, just as chicken soup should be.
第四道｜黑喉鯛：欖豉（圖5）
全晚最愛的一道菜式。把粵菜家常蒸魚要做到極致，范主廚決定從每個細節入手。
黑喉鯛肉質較清新緊嫩，適合於夏天享用。先取其鯛魚骨，以5-6小時「吊」成魚清湯，再把黑喉鯛最緊嫩的魚腩部分，用魚清湯以「蒸氣浴」的方式即席（圖6）把魚腩蒸至剛熟後，佐以秘制欖豉和頭抽享用，口腔一下子鮮成了汪洋。
Course 4 - Nodoguro: preserved olives
For the fish course, Chef Fam uses the leaner summer nodoguro in an elevated version of traditional Cantonese streamed fish. The fish bones are used to make a fish stock, which is used to steam the fish belly in a "hammam" tableside. Topped with preserved olives and premium soy sauce, this dish brims with umami. This is my favorite dish of the night.
第五道｜龍蝦：杭椒｜爆炒（圖7）
爆炒是粵菜的精髓，爆炒龍蝦更是相當考慮廚師功力，那一剎那的火喉掌控，足以定斷龍蝦的爽甜度。以鑲了豬肉的杭椒和龍蝦爆炒，惹味非常火喉精準。
Course 5 - Lobster: Chinese chili, stirfry
Stirfry is a quintessential Cantonese cooking technique. And stirfrying an ingredient like lobster, requires precise control of heat and timing. The lobster here is stirfried with pork-stuffed Chinese chili, and it's timed to perfection.
第六道｜和牛：松露｜爆炒（圖8）
以鹿兒島A4和牛跟雞樅菌爆炒，再即席上演一場松露雨，塔斯曼尼亞冬季黑松露為肉味添上豔麗氣場。
Course 6 - Wagyu: truffle, stirfry
The Kahoshima A4 wagyu is stirfried with chanterelle mushroom, and the finished dish is topped with a confetti of shaved Tasmanian black truffle, adding to the aroma.
第七道｜乳鴿：香芧｜吊燒（圖9）
天頤的招牌菜。師父為了把香芧入味於23日大的石歧妙齡乳鴿，想盡了千方百計。先在滷水中加入香茅生浸乳鴿，再在上桌時佐以煙燻香茅葉，最後現點即炸至皮脆多汁，拍照多一秒也嫌太久。（並附上檸檬水洗手，很貼心的服務細節。）
Course 7 - Pigeon : lemongrass, crisped
This is Yi's signature dish. Chef braises the 23-day-old squab in a lemongrass infused master stock, deep fries it to create the crispy skin, then smokes it with burned lemongrass tableside. There is no pretty way to eat this, and so the server provides a side of lemon water for hand washing. A thoughtful touch.
清清味蕾：番厘茄啫喱配話梅泡沫（圖10左上）
把番茄和話梅的譽瓏軒經典組合拆解重組。番茄一口咬下，是帶有自然舒爽酸味的啫喱。一份小啫喱便要用上3-4個日本番茄澄清吊汁炮製，配上話梅泡沫，這道過場小品的呈現和構成都充滿想法，酸甜味道具衝擊性。
Palate cleanser: Tomato gelee with preserved plum espuma
This is an homage to the Jade Dragon signature snack. One slice of this deconstructed tomato requires the juice of 3-4 full tomatoes. Paired with preserved plum espuma, this bite-sized flavor bomb packs a sweet and sour punch.
第八道｜菜：松茸｜上湯（圖10右上）
這道菜充滿夏季時令性。以「地三鮮」為靈感，有時令的覓菜嫩葉，和經香烤後風味更濃厚的松茸。最後佐以烏魚子提鮮。
Course 8 - Veg : matsutake, stock
This dish is the epitome of summer. Inspired by a northern Chinese peasant dish called disanxian (literally "3 treasures of the earth," originally a stirfry of potato, eggolant, and green pepper), this dish sets out to provide the best of summer. Using fresh shoots of amarath as bed, the dish is topped with grilled mastsutake and a generous sprinkle of mullet roe for maximum umami.
第九道｜香苗：海膽｜鹹飯（圖10 左下）
薑蔥、豬油渣和海膽的搭配，就是簡單純粹的美味！如果能做到粵式煲仔飯「咋咋聲」的熱鍋焦香會更完美。
Course 9 - Rice : sea urchin, Minnan salty rice
Pairing allium, crackling, and sea urchin, this play on the Minnan classic is simple but delectable. If this can be combined with a sizzling Cantonese claypot to create a tahdig, it would have been even more amazing.
第十道｜椰皇：雪燕｜蘆薈（圖10 右下）
夏天是享用椰皇的時令季節，加上滋陰養顏的雪燕牛奶布甸和有助消化的蘆薈，嘗用此甜品後，當下有什麼燥熱也頓時消除。
Course 10 - Coconut: tragacanth, aloe vera
No summer menu is complete without coconut. This refreshing coconut panna cotta is topped with tragacanth (natural resin from an Asian legume tree) and flesh of an aloe plant. It's the perfect antidote to the summer heat.
now and then菜單 在 [食記][高雄市] NOW & THEN by nybc - 看板Kaohsiung - 批踢踢 ... 的推薦與評價
※ [本文轉錄自 Food 看板 #1UZSWLYy ]
作者: JeremyKSKGA (Jeremy以食為天) 看板: Food
標題: [食記][高雄市] NOW & THEN by nybc
時間: Wed Apr 8 20:48:02 2020
圖文網誌：https://jeremyckt2.pixnet.net/blog/post/229171397
餐廳名稱：NOW & THEN by nybc
用餐日期：2020.4.3
地址：高雄市鹽埕區大義街2-3號 駁二C9-19倉庫
鄰近捷運站： 高雄捷運橘線O2鹽埕埔站、 輕軌C12駁二大義站
電話：(07) 5316999
營業時間：星期一~五 10:00~17:00；星期六&日 10:00~21:00
清明連假第二天(4/3(五))我約了一位好友一起去逛駁二藝術特區，
中午我們先到設在駁二C9倉庫裡的 "NOW & THEN" 享用早午餐。
"NOW & THEN" 是 "N.Y. Bagels" 旗下的美式早午餐餐廳品牌，
主打美式料理、美式早午餐和精品咖啡。
餐廳裡配合舊倉庫以美式工業風呈現，
牆面採用鐵灰色系為主，
空間非常寬敞並且採用挑高式的設計，
採光良好室內很明亮，
整體環境乾淨舒適，
靠牆有一整排沙發座位。
我們的用餐座位在2樓，
2樓的斑駁牆面還有貨櫃門，
很能結合高雄這座港都的在地特色。
這家供應多款全日早午餐，
包括美式歐姆蛋捲、班尼迪克蛋、拼盤早午餐等，
其他主餐還有漢堡、三明治，
咖啡有供應多款濃縮咖啡、義式咖啡、創意咖啡，
其他飲品則有茶飲、奶昔、冰沙、啤酒等，
(注意：未成年請勿飲酒)
還有法式吐司和手工甜點。
餐點品項很豐富。
完整菜單內容可參見我的相簿：https://jeremyckt2.pixnet.net/album/set/6173780
餐具、開水和醬料都是自助式的
我們各點了一道早午餐
紐奧良爵士雞肉起司蛋捲
歐姆蛋捲裡包著肯瓊(Cajun)風味雞胸肉、起司，
附上烤吐司、炒薯塊、小杯水果沙拉。
歐姆蛋蛋皮厚實又香嫩濕潤，
雞胸肉軟嫩不柴，
肯瓊香料醃得入味，
味道香辣多層次又夠味，
再搭著香濃起司美味十足。
炒薯塊是切丁帶皮馬鈴薯熱炒的，
口感較硬脆，
香料挺入味的不錯吃。
起司炸雞三明治
吐司夾著炸雞、起司，
附上薯條。
吐司烤得外表香酥，
本身帶點奶香。
炸雞外酥內嫩又多汁，
搭著香濃起司更好吃。
"NOW & THEN by nybc" 的美式早午餐口感和風味都很讚，
我們點的歐姆蛋捲和三明治都很好吃印象很好，
分量相當充足，
在晴朗溫暖的高雄享用這頓早午餐真是帶來滿滿元氣，
讓我們當天得以迎接美好的行程。
是說下次有機會希望能喝喝看這家的優質咖啡呢！
--
※ 發信站: 批踢踢實業坊(ptt.cc), 來自: 114.136.63.72 (臺灣)
※ 文章網址: https://www.ptt.cc/bbs/Food/M.1586350101.A.8BC.html
※ 發信站: 批踢踢實業坊(ptt.cc)
※ 轉錄者: JeremyKSKGA (114.136.63.72 臺灣), 04/08/2020 20:48:30
※ 編輯: JeremyKSKGA (114.136.63.72 臺灣), 04/08/2020 20:48:38
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