Although all these years I've been hearing people telling me how major cities in China are really working on making the environment more green, I still didn't expect these many trees lining up on the sides of the streets in Shanghai.
Also, the last time I visited was 11 years ago with my family. It's truly the NYC of Asia. it's crazy how fast Shanghai has developed. However, I had a hard time escaping from that garbage smell floating in the air ... Apparently this gets worse as the weather gets warmer.
I always imagined Shanghai as a bigger Taipei. I imagined it to be just as crowded, but I totally forgot Shanghai is a much bigger city, hence the streets and roads are much wider as well. I didn't feel the same population density while I was there. Or, maybe I just visited the city when all people who live/work in Shanghai are out for vacation ...
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《上海各種觀察日記 No.1》
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旅居:綠蔭、老房、垃圾味
距離上次來上海,已有將近十一年的光陰了。這次來一半是為了工作,一半是為了探望四年不見的大學兼研究所同學。在上海開設音樂教室的馬來西亞華僑好友到機場來接我,接著,我們坐上計程車,往西前進。
也許是第一次造訪中國時,被密密麻麻的人群還有攝氏43度的炎熱的氣溫嚇到,在那之後對中國的印象便一直不是很好;又加上台灣近幾年來中國遊客氾濫,而出來觀光的,又或多或少代表著一個國家的門面。因此,我記憶裡的中國便顯得不是那麼可親了。
而這些年來,我總是從造訪過上海、長居過,或和上海人交手過的友人口中聽過不少事情:上海人的厲害(尤其上海女人)、上海人的勢利、上海人的 ....。告訴我這些的絕大多數是台灣人,個個對我耳提面命,叫我去了要小心點,如果要和他們共事可能會被氣死,千萬不要被欺負了。
十多年畢竟也是漫長的,我的上海印象早已模糊。我又陸陸續續的認識許多被中國「吸進去」的西方朋友:加拿大、德國、比利時...,我從他們的雙眼,看見和自己想像中不一樣的中國。我想,中國其實好大,對於西方人,中國的一切對他們來說,又更是份外不同吧?反觀自己的確是因為各種因素,導致心裡對於中國的觀感變得複雜了。於是我告訴自己,得帶著沒有色彩的眼鏡來造訪這個城市。
就不過是另一個地方,得帶著新鮮的眼光,和去別的國家一樣。
我抵達的這天是五一,不知道是不是因為這天是中國的大節日,大家都出去玩了,讓上海感覺空空的。又或者我總是把上海想成放大好幾倍的台北,卻忘了將它的街道跟著放大幾倍,整體來說暫且還沒有地小人稠的感覺。
出了計程車,一股揮之不去的垃圾味撲鼻而來。我心想可能只是附近垃圾處理不當,但那氣味卻如影隨形。好友住在靠法租界的區域,安頓好行李後便帶著我去家裡附近繞了繞,一路走去了上海音樂院附屬中學校區附近。沿途路上是一排又一排的大樹,說實在我是很羨慕的,羨慕的是道路被一片又一片的綠蔭覆蓋住的幽涼。
傍晚,我和另一位同樣在上海居住了兩年多的德國朋友去散步,我忍不住問他到底是我鼻子有問題,還是這飄在空中的垃圾味是貨真價實的 ... 。他笑說我沒聞錯,因為今天天氣變暖了,所以垃圾味就出來了。隨著天氣越來越熱,味道就會越來越重 ... 。
我們一邊走,他一邊跟我講述著這幾年來在上海的生活。他說,在長寧古北那區,巨型shopping mall一間間的蓋。有間外觀設計新穎的,好像也才剛開始營運不久,裡頭的商家就都一間間撤出了,空空的,聽說要收了。而方圓一公里內又蓋起了兩三家mall,全都是在這半年一年內落成的。我們走在寬廣的人行道上、高聳建築之間,我感歎地說自己台灣家裡附近的小小公寓都花了一年多才蓋好,中國有本事在短時間內蓋好這麼大的mall,難怪都市發展如此迅速,迅速到有點恐怖。德國友人聽了不以為然,說:『蓋這麼快,誰知道真正的品質到底如何。這裡蓋得快,拆得也快,你家旁的新公寓慢慢蓋,也許他們很仔細啊!』我忽然想起了今年過年前那場大地震,淡淡的說:『這其實也很難說。』
他說他來上海的短短兩年就已經搬了三次家,第一次住在底樓,有自己的花園陽台,但樓上的鄰居把他的花園當成自家的垃圾場,老是把垃圾往下丟。他不堪其擾搬了家,討厭死那個地方了。結果,後來遷去的住處樓上住了上音附中的學生,每天瘋狂練琴,但練來練去都是李斯特的那首音樂會練習曲「鐘」。星期天早上還八點就開始彈雙手八度音的練習曲暖身,也是鋼琴家的德國友人至今還不知道那首曲子到底是什麼。偶爾,母親不滿孩子的練琴方式,訓斥孩子的聲音他也都聽得一清二楚,而孩子總是以瘋狂敲擊鋼琴來回應。友人忍無可忍,索性開了音響聽搖滾樂,把音樂轉到最大聲,沒想到竟然遭來那戶鄰居的抗議。
想當然爾,也是搬家收場。
『我再也不想聽到李斯特的鐘了。』他說。
我們慢慢步行回去,而從此刻起,在我腦子中的上海印象,慢慢地開始有了新的模樣。
................................................................
消失了一星期沒發文,其實就是跑去牆內處理工作的事了,而且才短短三天哪~沒能排時間探望住在那裡的外公外婆,希望親戚們幫我守密(謝謝)(外公外婆應該不會看臉書吧)(要看臉書得先會翻牆)
................................................................
加碼影音 & 中文全文同步發表於部落格:
http://joannamiko.pixnet.net/blog/post/217002671
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